Mamodman123
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The budgie has landed after a long fleightThe TE1V has returned after a long long journey.
The story so far:
I bought one at STIA, i fired it and the paint melted 
Mamod sent me a second model and the regulator was faulty, engine ran too fast and it didn't shut off.
I sent it back to mamod (Smethwick West mids) they got it, said yes its faulty but told me to sort it out with Phil (Forest Classics). He then took the engine back to his workshop in Gloucestershire he fixed it and sent it back to me.
A few stills of the first run:
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johnreid
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I think that the big brass Cylinder and Valve gear takes a bit of getting used to, but it sure does seem to run nicely. I for one am glad to see Mamod move to compete with the Wilesco Smoky on better terms.
Great running mobile.
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Mamodman123
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| johnreid wrote: | I think that the big brass Cylinder and Valve gear takes a bit of getting used to, but it sure does seem to run nicely. I for one am glad to see Mamod move to compete with the Wilesco Smoky on better terms.
Great running mobile. |
The cylinders won't be round for long, so don't bother getting used to it  . They are probably making it into a proper 'cylinder' shape.
It runs very well, i'm sure Wallace and Richard will tell you the same about the roller 
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IndianaRog
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MM...relieved to hear you finally got things sorted. It does run very smoothly and at measurably slower speeds than the earlier models.
Nice, very nice.
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Mister Occlusion
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Oh that's nice. I definitely want one of the rollers one day.
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TRAPPERKEEPER
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Looks a runs great, on my ever growing list 
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Nick
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The still shots looked great with the steam coming out. 
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steamyman
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glad it all came good in the end for you, MM.
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Les Marsh
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That does look nice, glad you got it all sorted in the end. Three good videos of the engine.
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Wallace
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Great to hear everything is sorted mate 
Runs well Very nice looking engine
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Mamodman123
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| IndianaRog wrote: | MM...relieved to hear you finally got things sorted. It does run very smoothly and at measurably slower speeds than the earlier models.
Nice, very nice. |
Thanks Rog!
Definately worth the wait thats for sure
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Griffin
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Very nice MM, and considerably more controlled than the oscilators.
Did mamod give you an explanation for the paint blistering?
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Sandman
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Glad to hear all is well mate.
Certainly runs well now.
I still think your experience may well put others off buying one of these, as Mamods quality control is obviously abysmal.
It's a shame as I really like the new model.
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Minor1PJG
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Glad it's all sorted MM.
Do you know when the revised cylinder model will be available??
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CCairns
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as Mamods quality control is obviously abysmal.
With your experience here, plus the experience of the various William owners, I can only fully agree with the above statement.
This revised cylinder arrangement is going to affect the new William as well, and presumably all other engines with this valve cylinder arrangement (SP6, TE1AC, Showmans Engine, Showmans Special). Will it be able to be retro-fitted onto these earlier models, otherwise we have a serious spare parts problem in the future?
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Mamodman123
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| Griffin wrote: | Very nice MM, and considerably more controlled than the oscilators.
Did mamod give you an explanation for the paint blistering? |
Nope nor an apology 
Spare part problem, not sure, unless you lose half the cylinder block 
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wyvern
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Its been a while since Ive repsonded to any posts. Good to see they have finally sorted it MM:D .
My goliath had problems as well and so I had to send it back. but got it back eventually, runs well. I noticed that the regulator block looks different on the newer models and doesn't have the O rings as mine does. Has mamod improved the design? Does yours suffer badly from priming? Mine tends to hydraulic during the starting up period and I fitted a stuart drain cock to reduce the problem.
happy steaming
Wyvern
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Mamodman123
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| wyvern wrote: | Its been a while since Ive repsonded to any posts. Good to see they have finally sorted it MM:D .
My goliath had problems as well and so I had to send it back. but got it back eventually, runs well. I noticed that the regulator block looks different on the newer models and doesn't have the O rings as mine does. Has mamod improved the design? Does yours suffer badly from priming? Mine tends to hydraulic during the starting up period and I fitted a stuart drain cock to reduce the problem.
happy steaming
Wyvern |
Yep, I think they all do, its either that or the water/oil. Wallaces does it aswell as does Lewis' SP6
The regulator handle doesn't appear to have any o rings, its held in by clips and can't be removed without taking the whole block off the engine frame
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CCairns
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| Quote: | | Mine tends to hydraulic during the starting up period |
I have an SP6 & William, and they both suffer from that problem as well. I believe it is due to the small size of the lubricator and it is trying to push too much oil through the valve gear when you first open the steam regulator. Mamod are aware of it as it is covered in the instructions.
'NOTE At the start of each run, particularly if starting from dead cold, the model may appear to jam up or behave jerkily, this is normal as condensation clears from the system.'
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Lewis
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aye that happens on my sp6 it goes dead hard before the run begins because of all the oil in the pipes 
got there in the end mm
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Mamodman123
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I usually put my finger between the spokes and fully rotate instead of flicking it
I think Andrew or Richard gave me that tip 
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kusuchi
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The 'Important Note' talks about rotating the flywheel slowly instead of flicking it. I believe it was Andrew who finally nailed the technique on this and I remember the post.
If you can remember the title and location of your original TE1A Centurion thread, I can quickly transfer the comments we made back then.
Regards,
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Wallace
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Thanks for that scan, Richard.
I'm just lucky MM warned me about the locking up, as I wouldn't have had a clue what was going on. 
So turn the flywheel slowly?
Interesting that it doesn't do it at all when running on compressed air (with oil of course)
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Reid
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First sight of this thread for myself. Oh my. Sorry the new design is that quirky.
Thought: the large brass cylinder and valve block represent a great deal of cold heatsink metal.
If any of you owners possess a small propane torch, that sort of thing,
and by fanning it quickly, gently, to pre-warm the cylinder in the few minutes before your engine it to run,
get it quite warm,
I wonder if that won't aid in minimizing the priming?
I wonder if most of it owes to water? Oil too, but that's so much brass that must be warmed.
It does run great once running though. Strong, and well lubed by that displacement oiler.
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bessytractor
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congrats MM
I'm so glad you got it back and in good order.
I was wondering when we would hear from you about this engine!
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IndianaRog
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If Mamod must re-work many of these engines after the sale, I can't imagine they are making any money on them.
Less costly to get quality right from day one than fix it once or twice after the fact.
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Mamodman123
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| IndianaRog wrote: | If Mamod must re-work many of these engines after the sale, I can't imagine they are making any money on them.
Less costly to get quality right from day one than fix it once or twice after the fact. |
You're probably right Rog
Forest sells two of these a week though, not bad...
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IndianaRog
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If Forest is the largest Mamod dealer in the UK (their claim I believe), two a week is just over 100 per year.
If Mamod themselves made $100 USD profit on each (guess)...that is just $10,000 a year...worse still if they have to take half of them back for after sale quality fixes. Makes one wonder where the profit is in the toy steam business unless you make a bazillion of them and they turn out right each time.
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Mamodman123
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| IndianaRog wrote: | If Forest is the largest Mamod dealer in the UK (their claim I believe), two a week is just over 100 per year.
If Mamod themselves made $100 USD profit on each (guess)...that is just $10,000 a year...worse still if they have to take half of them back for after sale quality fixes. Makes one wonder where the profit is in the toy steam business unless you make a bazillion of them and they turn out right each time. |
True £5,000 profit a year on one model isn't too shabby. Forest said this is the first that he's had problems with, so I guess I could have just been unlucky. I believe these are also made when ordered, they don't simply churn out hundreds then try and shift them on.
I don't think there is much of a profit to be had in that business, I guess a lot of the money is in the spares and extra supply of solid fuel. Mamod can't simply afford to throw bags of money at new models like "SE4 reproductions" or whatever, they'd go bust in about 5 minutes
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Nick
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This is the first Forest has had problems with, but how many did it happen on and people just didn't report it?
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Mamodman123
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| ncseverson wrote: | | This is the first Forest has had problems with, but how many did it happen on and people just didn't report it? |
Who knows?
You'd be pretty stupid not to report a problem though, it's common sense.
If a button fell off a TV would you return it?
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Nick
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I always report stuff when it happens, because it is usually warrantied and easily fixed, but I know several people who just ignore these problems.
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Les Marsh
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We had problems with some furniture we bought, one of the glass shelves was broken on delivery. We phoned and complained, and after five months they admitted that they could not get any more and that we could have our money back, £267, keep the furniture, and they are paying us £100 compensation.
A new shelf is only £12.
So it pays to complain.
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Mamodman123
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| Les Marsh wrote: | We had problems with some furniture we bought, one of the glass shelves was broken on delivery. We phoned and complained, and after five months they admitted that they could not get any more and that we could have our money back, £267, keep the furniture, and they are paying us £100 compensation.
A new shelf is only £12.
So it pays to complain. |
Some people complain on a professional level! Believe me Ive seen it!
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Wallace
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| Reid wrote: | First sight of this thread for myself. Oh my. Sorry the new design is that quirky.
Thought: the large brass cylinder and valve block represent a great deal of cold heatsink metal.
If any of you owners possess a small propane torch, that sort of thing,
and by fanning it quickly, gently, to pre-warm the cylinder in the few minutes before your engine it to run,
get it quite warm,
I wonder if that won't aid in minimizing the priming?
I wonder if most of it owes to water? Oil too, but that's so much brass that must be warmed.
It does run great once running though. Strong, and well lubed by that displacement oiler. |
Reid, that's an interesting point. What I might try is boiling water poured over the assembly just before the water in the boiler reaches simmering.
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Mamodman123
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Not a bad idea, I know it's never as bad the second run once everything has been warmed up
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