Spule 4
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The final fix for the leaky O rings in the reverser block?All:
Anyone want to give me a good reason NOT to silver solder the steam and exhaust lines into the reverser block? 
The slightest bump of the feed line make the things leak and I had minor clearance problems due to the larger head size on the IP cylinder pivot screws. Fighting the leaks is getting a bit old, and since I have some other soldering to do, and the loco can be dis-assembled by droping the fame from under the boiler and body, I do not see any immediate problems.
Awaiting replies....
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tmuir
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If you silver solder it it will make it hard to pull apart should you ever need to work on the regulator.
I used some non setting high temp gasket goo to stop most of my steam leaks. It may be worth a try for you.
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Spule 4
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| tmuir wrote: | If you silver solder it it will make it hard to pull apart should you ever need to work on the regulator.
I used some non setting high temp gasket goo to stop most of my steam leaks. It may be worth a try for you. |
GREAT idea!
I have some here, worth a shot!
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Graham-Jilly
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replace the O Rings I did 
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steamyjim
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On the inlet I soldered a pipe that went halfway along the frame. I put a nipple and a union on that to join it to the other end-the regulator
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paul_c
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Mine hasn't leaked yet and I shoved a pipe in and out of it six or so times while fitting a lubricator.
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Spule 4
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| Graham-Jilly wrote: | | replace the O Rings I did |
Done it more times than I care to!
The big problem is the O ring is not the best method in the world when you have 40 psig of pressure behind it.
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Spule 4
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| steamyjim wrote: | | On the inlet I soldered a pipe that went halfway along the frame. I put a nipple and a union on that to join it to the other end-the regulator |
That was the other idea I had.
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CCairns
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Whilst I have heard of people resorting to soldering the steam pipe into the reverser/regulator, I think the secret lies in getting the pipe entering at the right angle to get a good seal.
Check that the end of the pipe is smooth and flush, and then bend the pipe as necessary to ensure it enters the inlet hole at 90°. A little steam oil on the 'O' ring helps as well.
I've found with my various Mamod locos that these steam pipes have not been consistently bent to the same shape and size, and have to re-bend them to fit into the reverser/regulator properly, and also the piece going up into the boiler needs adjusting so that it does not droop down from inside the steam dome nut (this leads to priming or very wet steam).
When re-assembling your loco leave screwing back up the reverser/regulator towards the end, so with the chassis mounted to the smokebox & rear dragbeam, you can adjust those pipes into the reverser/regulator, and then screw it up tight.
Problem with the IP Eng replacement cylinders/pistons is I think they use the same size screw for holding the Gauge O or Gauge 1 cylinders to the backplate. Thus on the Gauge O ones the screws protrude out a bit, and that has been highlighted here on the Forum before when used in conjunction with the IP Eng Lubricator. Is it not possible to trim these screws down a bit or are they too tight already with those springs?
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Mamodman123
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| Spule 4 wrote: | | Graham-Jilly wrote: | | replace the O Rings I did |
Done it more times than I care to!
The big problem is the O ring is not the best method in the world when you have 40 psig of pressure behind it. |
Why is it running at 40spi?
Once in the pipe shouldn't move on a loco, but if you are running it at 40 psi i'm not suprised you have a leak there
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Spule 4
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| CCairns wrote: | Whilst I have heard of people resorting to soldering the steam pipe into the reverser/regulator, I think the secret lies in getting the pipe entering at the right angle to get a good seal.
Check that the end of the pipe is smooth and flush, and then bend the pipe as necessary to ensure it enters the inlet hole at 90°. A little steam oil on the 'O' ring helps as well.
I've found with my various Mamod locos that these steam pipes have not been consistently bent to the same shape and size, and have to re-bend them to fit into the reverser/regulator properly, and also the piece going up into the boiler needs adjusting so that it does not droop down from inside the steam dome nut (this leads to priming or very wet steam).
When re-assembling your loco leave screwing back up the reverser/regulator towards the end, so with the chassis mounted to the smokebox & rear dragbeam, you can adjust those pipes into the reverser/regulator, and then screw it up tight.
Problem with the IP Eng replacement cylinders/pistons is I think they use the same size screw for holding the Gauge O or Gauge 1 cylinders to the backplate. Thus on the Gauge O ones the screws protrude out a bit, and that has been highlighted here on the Forum before when used in conjunction with the IP Eng Lubricator. Is it not possible to trim these screws down a bit or are they too tight already with those springs? |
Hello Chris-
The thing runs great on compressed air. Yes, agreed on the screws as they are a bit longer, but not mucking with them to make them tighter either. Cutting them down.....hmmmm.
I really do not see how the lubricator and their cylinders would BOTH fit in there with this design!
The angle issue I can remember the first time I took it apart back in the 1980s. The problem now with the pipe running the full length, it is a LOT more easy to get bumped or twisted. You have to quickly remember that the angle is downward.
Like your Jane, hope to nab a Janet in the near future!
I am still NOT sold on NOT soldering this. As the whole assembly can drop down from the regulator (soon lubricator) and be handled this way. The O ring idea was probably fine in the 14 psig world, but with a proper boiler, I don't see it.
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