Archive for The Unofficial Mamod and Other Steam Forum The Original Unofficial Toy Steam Forum Established 2006 The biggest, most popular steam forum around! Accept NO imitations! We have a growing community of regular posting members who chat about all aspects of toy and model steam.          The Unofficial Mamod and Other Steam Forum Forum Index -> General discussion Juha_Fi What model ? Hello I wanted my childhood back, so I bought few weeks ago this beaty from eBay. It's almost same, that I had in mid 80's. I was so Young those times and I didn't know anything about mechs. It started to leak and I thought it was broken, so I give it a way. What I meant almost same, like this; No window and maybe whitsle. What model is this ? Cheers: Juha SPOKESMAN Re: What model ? Juha_Fi wrote: Hello I wanted my childhood back, so I bought few weeks ago this beaty from eBay. It's almost same, that I had in mid 80's. I was so Young those times and I didn't know anything about mechs. It started to leak and I thought it was broken, so I give it a way. What I meant almost same, like this; No window and maybe whitsle. What model is this ? Cheers: Juha Its an Se1a - dating fom around 1977-78. Welcome to the forum. Mike Steve_S Welcome to the forum! I think that most of us over a certain age are trying to get our childhood back. Mamodman123 Welcome Juha to the forums, glad you can now post after that small problem That's a very nice SE1a you have there. Mike (Spokesman) dated it acuratly as ever Enjoy your stay! and I look forward to your contribution Lewis hi welocome to the forum thats a nice se1 you have there yosa Hi Juha, I'm new as well. It's a great forum. Stick around. Wallace Hi Juha, and welcome to the forums sparky welcome to the forums ! Juha_Fi Hi everybody ! Thx by warm cheers that U gave to me I had little incident with this Mamod. Cause I was so keen to show my 6 year old son, what a joy is operate live steam; I used blowtorch to power up. Many times. It worked fine. But then last week I try to operate machine, but I didn't get manage open safetyvalve to put water inside. Just spinning of valve, no opening happend. What a problem. Then I found this wondefull forum ! I educated me and get opend other end of boiler. The weldings was gone. So much heat was present. I have order these http://tinyurl.com/g5apn for welding repairs. Cheers: Juha tmuir Be careful using those rods. I've never used them before. If they have silver in them they may have a high melting point and if you are not careful you could melt the brass before the solder, as the brass if fairly thin too much heat in one spot will melt it. Mamodman123 You've broken the thread, heating the engine with a blowtorch is quite dangerous i'm suprised its still alive check out the technical tips board for re-soldering! Use normal lead based solder! SPOKESMAN Jesus!! Mamodman123 SPOKESMAN wrote: Jesus!! Shame that has happened, but there is only one way you can fix that mess up Juha_Fi Hello The threads are ok, but the 'joint' is freely turning, so that is only point, which is loosen. No harm was on my mind, when I was using torch. Simply only way to power up, cause no tablets. If those soldering rods are wrong kind, I will then buy better ones. It was not my mention to destroy that piece of machinery, only unawareness of knowledge. I will start to clean up&restore whole machine, soon. Can You tell me online place to buy bit and pieces ? I have found in eBay, but those post fees are killing me. I need new window. Is it wrong to modify ? Whitsle and pressue gauge would be nice... I will buy more steams, I need more ...one is coming from eBay, my second one... Cheers: Juha Mamodman123 Juha_Fi wrote: Hello The threads are ok, but the 'joint' is freely turning, so that is only point, which is loosen. No harm was on my mind, when I was using torch. Simply only way to power up, cause no tablets. If those soldering rods are wrong kind, I will then buy better ones. It was not my mention to destroy that piece of machinery, only unawareness of knowledge. I will start to clean up&restore whole machine, soon. Can You tell me online place to buy bit and pieces ? I have found in eBay, but those post fees are killing me. I need new window. Is it wrong to modify ? Whitsle and pressue gauge would be nice... I will buy more steams, I need more ...one is coming from eBay, my second one... Cheers: Juha Nope, modifying your engine is fine, but with the SE1a you only have one thread for the safety valve, you need a safety valve at all times, so you will have to put more threads in if you want a whistle and pressure gauge. What you need for solder is the normal stuff down your D.I.Y store, the stuff plumbers use, lead based with a low enough melting point. Make sure you get some 'flux' too, so when you solder it will run right round instead of going blobby. You will also need to clean up any old solder with wet and dry paper. From the picture I can see the safty valve has been crushed, is it stuck in the boiler? You will need to solder the thread back in the boiler: Grip the thread inside the boiler and grip the safety valve, turn both in opposite directions and remove the safety valve Take the thread out and wet and dry the area around where you need to solder as much as possible. Make sure you get it back to a gold brassy colour. Do the same with the thread. Then pop it back in the boiler, get plenty of flux around it, then heat up and run solder around the thread. Then, sand around the inside edge of the end cap and run some flux around it. Then place it back on the boiler. You then need some thin solder, and run that around the lip of the end cap and it should solder up. You you get any blobs just heat and wipe with wire wool then get some very fine wet and dry and remove. Finally polish up with metal polish (Brasso) and it's done. I hope you can understand that anyway good luck too! let us know how you get on! Don't ever heat a Mamod with a blowtorch again either , now that is a first! Wallace Wow, never seen a boiler heated by a blow torch before Never seen those rods before either. Look like stick welding rods, but they must be for brazing. As tmuir said, having solder, they will have a high melting point. I used silver solder making the SE3 burner, looked nothing like those rods, but it needed a lot of heat, and oxy would have been best. Looks like those rods may need an oxy too, for brazing. MM's tips are great, and soft solder is fine for mamods. Good luck with it. Juha_Fi Hello I just get new window. Original was attached by rivets and new one is with screws. Where I can find nuts ? What size ? Or must I oder rivets ? What drill size to bore out old rivets? Cheers: Juha ps. I just get new oldie from ebay..its two cylender version Mamodman123 Juha_Fi wrote: Hello I just get new window. Original was attached by rivets and new one is with screws. Where I can find nuts ? What size ? Or must I oder rivets ? What drill size to bore out old rivets? Cheers: Juha ps. I just get new oldie from ebay..its two cylender version SE3? don't blow torch it this time SPOKESMAN Just had to rtesort to using my blowtorch on my 48 SE2 - still leaking steam, safety valve OK now. The union nut is leaking so I have had to solder it! Better though, still leaking a bit - and I cant find my flux so makes soldering tricky. Will come back to it! Had three steamings all sh!te. I can think of better ways to waste 2 hours!! Mamodman123 SPOKESMAN wrote: Just had to rtesort to using my blowtorch on my 48 SE2 - still leaking steam, safety valve OK now. The union nut is leaking so I have had to solder it! Better though, still leaking a bit - and I cant find my flux so makes soldering tricky. Will come back to it! Had three steamings all sh!te. I can think of better ways to waste 2 hours!! Have you tried an o ring on the pipe Mike? SPOKESMAN Mamodman123 wrote: SPOKESMAN wrote: Just had to rtesort to using my blowtorch on my 48 SE2 - still leaking steam, safety valve OK now. The union nut is leaking so I have had to solder it! Better though, still leaking a bit - and I cant find my flux so makes soldering tricky. Will come back to it! Had three steamings all sh!te. I can think of better ways to waste 2 hours!! Have you tried an o ring on the pipe Mike? None to hand, its soldered now, needs finishing off though. Ran like shite! Mamodman123 SPOKESMAN wrote: Mamodman123 wrote: SPOKESMAN wrote: Just had to rtesort to using my blowtorch on my 48 SE2 - still leaking steam, safety valve OK now. The union nut is leaking so I have had to solder it! Better though, still leaking a bit - and I cant find my flux so makes soldering tricky. Will come back to it! Had three steamings all sh!te. I can think of better ways to waste 2 hours!! Have you tried an o ring on the pipe Mike? None to hand, its soldered now, needs finishing off though. Ran like shite! Should have said something Mike and I would have sent you a couple Well if you can get it working now SPOKESMAN Needs a tad more solder, will do it at some point. I had it going 3 times tonight. Mamodman123 SPOKESMAN wrote: Needs a tad more solder, will do it at some point. I had it going 3 times tonight. Going well? Glad to hear it anyway, any chance of a video? SPOKESMAN Mamodman123 wrote: SPOKESMAN wrote: Needs a tad more solder, will do it at some point. I had it going 3 times tonight. Going well? Glad to hear it anyway, any chance of a video? I made one - its still not going well. Mamodman123 SPOKESMAN wrote: Mamodman123 wrote: SPOKESMAN wrote: Needs a tad more solder, will do it at some point. I had it going 3 times tonight. Going well? Glad to hear it anyway, any chance of a video? I made one - its still not going well. As long as you get it sorted, would really like to see one running . They are probably my favourite SE2 variation Juha_Fi Beware, my killer blowtoch is coming... C'moon, seriously, tell me about glass replacement: I did get screw model and old is with rivets, what drill size in mm for drilling out old rivets, where I can get suitable nuts for new one screws (mm?) or must I get rivets (mm?). Cheers: Juha Mamodman123 Juha_Fi wrote: Beware, my killer blowtoch is coming... C'moon, seriously, tell me about glass replacement: I did get screw model and old is with rivets, what drill size in mm for drilling out old rivets, where I can get suitable nuts for new one screws (mm?) or must I get rivets (mm?). Cheers: Juha NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO Just use copper rivets! Juha_Fi ThX Once more Q: What is mm of drill ? I don't want accidently to drill too big hole for new rivets. Should I use somkind dremel type cutting circle or drill ? Cheers: Juha Wallace Juha_Fi wrote: Beware, my killer blowtoch is coming... C'moon, seriously, tell me about glass replacement: I did get screw model and old is with rivets, what drill size in mm for drilling out old rivets, where I can get suitable nuts for new one screws (mm?) or must I get rivets (mm?). Cheers: Juha Hi Juha. Here is a link for foresteam on UK ebay. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FS-BLIND-CO...PageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem This should help you out. These are the rivets you need. I think, though am not 100% sure they are 2.4mm diameter. Search UK ebay for "mamod rivets" and you'll find more, but copper rivets are what is needed in a boiler. When drilling out old rivets I usually use a drill bit slightly larger than the hole they are in, but carefully. This way, it takes the tops off the rivets. But the same size drill bit should work ok. You could also grind the tops off with a dremel if you are worried, as long as you are replacing the bit around the sightglass, as it might get damaged. Good luck mate sparky yeh good luck Juha_Fi Hello Thx Will this end's my madod's agony ? I think, that it need more polishing and TLC... Cheers: Juha Mamodman123 It looks good! Have you just put that sight glass back on? Or replaced it? I would have soldered the cap back on the boiler first, then put the sightglass on Juha_Fi No, its original broken one. I don't have the rivets yet, those I can buy next week or so. Then maybe the other goods (flux and solder) has arrived . Also I need those little one drill bits to operate glass changing. Cheers: Juha Mamodman123 Juha_Fi wrote: No, its original broken one. I don't have the rivets yet, those I can buy next week or so. Then maybe the other goods (flux and solder) has arrived . Also I need those little one drill bits to operate glass changing. Cheers: Juha That's ok then Juha! as long as you attach the new sight glass once you have soldered the end back on! otherwise you might melt the new sight glass Wallace Juha_Fi wrote: Beware, my killer blowtoch is coming... C'moon, seriously, tell me about glass replacement: I did get screw model and old is with rivets, what drill size in mm for drilling out old rivets, where I can get suitable nuts for new one screws (mm?) or must I get rivets (mm?). Cheers: Juha I'm not sure if you've got the replacement glass yet Juha. I just checked my replacement glass which came with 2 rivets, and 2 screws The rivets are 3 - 3.2mm. I would say 3.1, but don't think they make em in that size. The screws are about 2.8mm These are replacements. If the replacement rivets are same size as what are in there, replacement screws aren't going to do the job. At a guess, the originals should be 2.4mm, in which case the screws might do the job. I know you can get 2.4mm replacement rivets, so not sure why mine are so big Juha_Fi I must do new oder from foreststeam, who was supplier of this kit: need rivets. Cheers: Juha Wallace Nice one. Just order the blind copper rivets from him, for boilers. Notice the sightglass is perspex? Not sure if originals are but perspex would be safer He's a real helpful guy Good luck Mamodman123 Wallace wrote: Nice one. Just order the blind copper rivets from him, for boilers. Notice the sightglass is perspex? Not sure if originals are but perspex would be safer He's a real helpful guy Good luck Are they brass? the old ones used to be chrome SPOKESMAN Aye! Wallace Mamodman123 wrote: Wallace wrote: Nice one. Just order the blind copper rivets from him, for boilers. Notice the sightglass is perspex? Not sure if originals are but perspex would be safer He's a real helpful guy Good luck Are they brass? the old ones used to be chrome Is the sightglass surround brass? Yeah, it is mate, mine is the same Not that I need it now sparky looks nice though Juha_Fi OOOOPS WHAT A DISASTER ! ---not ! Finaly I've got all the parts to assembly all back. I did final polish and happily took from oven it's tray. All parts to kitchen floor. I was wistling 'n happy. Put some flux to threats, lit my blowtorch and some seriosly heating: lot'a smoke. I didn't know that smoke and smell it generate. Very fast door to closed. Peculiary all my three cats liked smell. I did get managet solder threat, end cap and steam pipe. Now I need to get new polish all over boiler. Need to remove overflowed solder somehow ? Of course, my rivet tongs are missing. I get tomorrow borroved one, that I can put glass's rivets back. Now I need figure how an earth I pacify my Wife.... What Life. I like so much. Live steam make's my day ! Cheers: Juha tmuir If you figure out how to pacify the wife let me know. To remove excess solder, if it is a blob, heat it with blow torch and wipe off with steel wool, then use wet and dry paper working from course to fine to remove last traces, then polish. If you don't want to heat again to remove solder use a fine file but be carfeul not to file away the brass.        The Unofficial Mamod and Other Steam Forum Forum Index -> General discussion Page 1 of 1