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| oldstuff |
Whistle WoesI had high hopes for these valves I bought on ebay:http://modelsteam.myfreeforum.org/ftopic2586-0-0-asc-.php They leak steam so badly that the engine I put it on can't push the flywheel. 
I thought maybe the first one leaking could be a fluke but second one leaks just as bad. So here I am in tips, technical details and help me. Any ideas on how to fix? Photo shows the important parts disassembled. 
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| Steve_S |
Chuck, if you want to use them as throttles you could try putting them on the exhaust instead of on the steam pipe from the boiler. It's far less important if an exhaust valve leaks... the steam has already done its work! And exhaust throttles work surprisingly well usually.
For whistles though.... not sure. They don't have a spring to pull them in tight like a Mamod whistle. Maybe you could modify them to have springs? Like I did with my Latimer L5 whistle... I think we spoke about that at the time. Anyway, it's in Restorations. |
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| oldstuff |
Steve, that's a good idea. Hadn't thought of that! It may be the only use
I can make out of them. I've just tinned the rotating part of the valve with a bit of solder to see if that might tighten things up and it helped slightly. I've often thought of making a whistle but I don't see how the tapered parts could be made without a lathe. Even with a lathe it seems difficult to obtain a precise, steam-tight fit that would still rotate well(as these valves apparently attest to!). Is there another approach besides the tapered parts method? |
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| Steve_S |
The only ones I've taken apart have been tapered. Its probably the simplest way for manufacturers... but not so easy for us. | ||||
| SPOKESMAN |
Lock nut and spring - although thread does not look long enough? | ||||
| tmuir |
As a short term measure try pulling it apart and coating the parts with a thick oil. | ||||
| Sandman |
Chuck how about this??
Some fine grinding paste on the tapered part then insert it and turn back and forth till the valve has a better seat. Hopefully that should help the seal enormously. Just an idea. 
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| Steve_S |
Good idea SM, a bit of valve grinding paste might do the trick. I think it would still be best if it had a spring to pull it together, like a Mamod whistle. As Mike points out the existing thread isn't long enough for that, but it could be sawn off and a new threaded rod (cut off a suitable bolt) could be soldered into a shallow hole drilled in the end. |
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| Sandman |
Good thinking Steve. I bet that a combination of the two would render the valve near enough steam tight.
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| tmuir |
And if it doesn't it will render it something. 
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| oldstuff |
All good ideas. I think the paste is good to try first because these valves look
dirty inside, maybe it's patina. The paste will at least clear that. Once the parts fit better, I'll take a look at whether to add thread and spring. Thanks for these tips, I may get it to work yet! |