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SE2 restoration
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Wallace


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Joined: 19 Jul 2006
Posts: 11149
Location: New South Wales, Australia

PostPosted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 8:48 am    Post subject: SE2 restoration Reply with quote

Over time I'll do it .

At the moment I'm heading towards a total re-spray.
I'll see what the poll I did brings.

Started already. Well pulled it apart anyway.
Definites are, fix solder at manifold, re-solder cylinder to it manifold block (replace the glue), and fix the union nut boss which is turning in bolier


As it arrived in mail



How it looks now



More pics as I do stuff
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sparky


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Joined: 17 Aug 2006
Posts: 2156
Location: bedfordshire, england

PostPosted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 9:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

nice thatll be good when done i think you might be able to keep it origonal but a respray may well be in order its a trciky one i cant decide really
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yosa


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Joined: 11 Sep 2006
Posts: 2493
Location: Liverpool

PostPosted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 9:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any thoughts on the union nut boss? Will you tackle from the outside, or take the boiler end cap off?
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Wallace


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 9:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I might try heating from outside first, see if it melts existing internal solder.
Failing that, end cap removal

Wondering if heat to re-solder thread (whichever way I go), will cause whistle thread to de-solder, as its close. That's my worry.

Need MM's help here.

MM, ever had a problem with soldering one thread, and it affect another thread?
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Sandman


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Joined: 19 Jul 2006
Posts: 8311
Location: Ayrshire Scotland

PostPosted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 9:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your base looks not too bad Wallace. Most of the really bad stuff seems to be hidden by the firebox ect. The worst seems to be round the feet area and sides.

It looks like my SE3 before I did it up.

How about this for an idea?

I went to my local Halfords motor store and matched the paint to the base as near as possible. (Took it with me)

Rubbed down the rusted bits on the sides and feet and treated with rust remedy. Then I used an old car sprayers trick.

Mask off the top of the base along the middle of the top corner of the base. Once thats done, mist in lightly in lots of coats till the desired finish is achieved. Once the paint has dried remove the masking and leave for a couple of days.

Finally T Cut along the masking tape line to meld the two paints. Job Done.

Comes out like this.


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yosa


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Location: Liverpool

PostPosted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 9:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's impressive sandman.
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Wallace


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Location: New South Wales, Australia

PostPosted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 9:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks SM. I might consider that option, certainly.
I can match the paint easily. Mate owns smash repairs. I pulled out of painting a MM1, so I have that paint in a tin, as long as it's similar red.

I spray throug an airbrush too so that'll help

The flywheel is pretty bad. Not much paint loss, but more blisters than you could imagine.

I'll keep it in mind mate. Cheers
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Sandman


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 9:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Had a closer look at the base Wallace.

That's a big chip of lost paintwork right through to the metal. Worse than I thought. See how it comes up with a clean and polish, then make the hard decision.
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Wallace


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Location: New South Wales, Australia

PostPosted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 10:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers mate.

Still not sure if it's all original.
Bolted base. Brass crank. But boilers ends aren't flat, and neither is the cylinder end.
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Mamodman123


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Joined: 19 Jul 2006
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 10:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Listen Wallace, if you are interested I have a spare base in almost mint condition! if you are interested in buying it off me then just say and i'll get a picture for you
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Wallace


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Location: New South Wales, Australia

PostPosted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 10:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mamodman123 wrote:
Listen Wallace, if you are interested I have a spare base in almost mint condition! if you are interested in buying it off me then just say and i'll get a picture for you


Now there's a thought.

Thanks mate.
I might consider that one.

You can send me a pic via email if you want.
Might tempt me
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Mamodman123


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 10:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll give it a dust down and grab a picture for you
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Wallace


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Location: New South Wales, Australia

PostPosted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 11:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers mate

Whenever you're ready.

I'll get to the soldering work on weekend.
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Mamodman123


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Joined: 19 Jul 2006
Posts: 31247
Location: Midlands, UK

PostPosted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wallace wrote:
Cheers mate

Whenever you're ready.

I'll get to the soldering work on weekend.


The soldering looks to be a straight forward job on the steam pipe! Should tidy up well

The union nut thread will be slightly more difficult, but i'm confident you can do that Wallace

You seem to be getting a couple of broken threads at the moment, you're taking up my job
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Solid Fuel tablets explode

You could get a nice flatbase for that

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Wallace


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Joined: 19 Jul 2006
Posts: 11149
Location: New South Wales, Australia

PostPosted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 11:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mamodman123 wrote:
Wallace wrote:
Cheers mate

Whenever you're ready.

I'll get to the soldering work on weekend.


The soldering looks to be a straight forward job on the steam pipe! Should tidy up well

The union nut thread will be slightly more difficult, but i'm confident you can do that Wallace

You seem to be getting a couple of broken threads at the moment, you're taking up my job


Indeed that's true mate. I was thinking that earlier.
Should have expected the thread prob. There had to be a catch after I finally won a SE2 (1st hurdle), it was cheap (2nd hurdle) and it was boxed (3rd hurdle)

I'll hit this finish line soon
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