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I DID IT!! Meths Burner!!
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igy569


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Joined: 08 Mar 2008
Posts: 692
Location: Uxbridge, MA

PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2008 4:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tmuir wrote:
Nice.
I used to have one of those water misters but through it out when I moved from the UK back to OZ.
Wishing I'd kept it now.


Hey..  I found that one at a flea market for like 3 bucks.  If you can not find one, you can get back to me, I have some 3" copper pipe, and I could solder up a nice tank for you.  All copper.  
But.. you should be able to find one of those misters, I have seen them for sale at florists.  Even new, full price, they are 10 dollars or so.

Keep 'em steamin'!!!
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IndianaRog


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Joined: 26 Dec 2006
Posts: 6315
Location: Indiana, USA

PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2008 8:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nick wrote:
You're taking over where Reid left off.


Same thought crossed my mind...same engine if I'm correct, but definitely a unique presentation for a burner system.  Clever!
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James


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Joined: 26 Jun 2006
Posts: 26663
Location: Nr. Gainsborough, Lincolnshire, England.

PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2008 8:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very nice!!  
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rangerssteamtoys


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Joined: 17 Jul 2007
Posts: 2128
Location: Houston Texas, USA

PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2008 1:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brilliant Idea, Like the alcohol tank. ITS HUGE

as for capping off the wicks, you could make a device that slides over the wicks so you could have a flame "Throttle" so to speak.
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igy569


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Joined: 08 Mar 2008
Posts: 692
Location: Uxbridge, MA

PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2008 3:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It was even easier.  I took 3/8 copper pipe, cut it with a big pair of wire cutters.  Perfect tube, with the end already crimped.  The wicktubes are 1/4 copper, with the end flared out a bit.  See the new post with a much smaller one for the 50's D20.  I also use caps on all 5 to slow the alchol evaporating.  The tank has to be big for what I have planned....  stilll need to come up with some sort of an stean jet oiler that does not require stopping the engine...


Hmmm..... any ideas?
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steamyjim


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Joined: 27 Oct 2006
Posts: 5254
Location: Pensford Somerset

PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2008 9:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

igy569 wrote:
It was even easier.  I took 3/8 copper pipe, cut it with a big pair of wire cutters.  Perfect tube, with the end already crimped.  The wicktubes are 1/4 copper, with the end flared out a bit.  See the new post with a much smaller one for the 50's D20.  I also use caps on all 5 to slow the alchol evaporating.  The tank has to be big for what I have planned....  stilll need to come up with some sort of an stean jet oiler that does not require stopping the engine...


Hmmm..... any ideas?


You could make a larger oiler. You would have to refill it but at much longer intervals

I intend to make one for my D20 power plant
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igy569


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Joined: 08 Mar 2008
Posts: 692
Location: Uxbridge, MA

PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2008 11:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ooohh... Do tell.
I hope you will share details?  
Cause that will be the only thing I need to make a real endurance test.   I still have to stop every 10-15 minutes to add oil to the usual places.  
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Mister Occlusion


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Joined: 28 Jul 2007
Posts: 3776
Location: Canada

PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2008 3:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dang that's a big burner  

I fired my Jensen 75 with my Bowman'ish burner today for the first time in months.  It actually worked well for the first time ever (maybe the steel wool packing is degrading and letting the fuel pass...)

Going to have to try a wick burner again.  My vap ones can be awful to light.
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rangerssteamtoys


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Joined: 17 Jul 2007
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Location: Houston Texas, USA

PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2008 8:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

igy569 wrote:
 stilll need to come up with some sort of an stean jet oiler that does not require stopping the engine...


Hmmm..... any ideas?


I have an idea, solder a valve up to the steam line then when the engine is running connect a hose to a syringe, then the syringe to the valve on the steam line and squirt in the oil.
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igy569


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Joined: 08 Mar 2008
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Location: Uxbridge, MA

PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2008 9:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting idea...   But... the freaking valves are really pricey, and hard to make.  I can make a crude one, but they leak too much.  I need better tooling to pull that off. Sides...  I do not picture the syringe fairing to well against the live steam pressure....

But the concept is good.....  something for me to ponder.  Maybe I can come up with something.  Hmmm.....
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johnreid


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Joined: 06 Sep 2007
Posts: 11064
Location: Friendship Indiana, USA

PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2008 9:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wet Steam is a fairly good lubricant on its own. I  think too much emphasis has been put on oilers
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igy569


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Joined: 08 Mar 2008
Posts: 692
Location: Uxbridge, MA

PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2008 9:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think I see what you mean.  The engines I have the problem with really are the oscillators.  They start to get really stiff after a bit of a run, but I have not noticed the valve engines complaining at all now that you mention it.......
So maybe just stopping the engine every 1/2 hour and adding oil should do it ya think?  I am also thinking of the linkages... and flywheel bearings.  
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johnreid


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Joined: 06 Sep 2007
Posts: 11064
Location: Friendship Indiana, USA

PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2008 9:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thik you are onto something, that and the correct oil.
Try the Green Velvet sometime.
http://www.steamenginelube.com/
THe Green Pin Bearing and Journal oil seems to stick to the surface better and the Steam Oil is great.
Just like Brylcream, a Little Dab'l Do Ya
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igy569


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Joined: 08 Mar 2008
Posts: 692
Location: Uxbridge, MA

PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2008 9:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Look like good stuff.  I think you sent me that link before.  As soon as I have a few bucks (I am SO tired of being broke!), I will get a pint of the stuff.  Any lines on where I can get a GOOD oil can with a nice thin spout?

Thanks!!
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johnreid


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Joined: 06 Sep 2007
Posts: 11064
Location: Friendship Indiana, USA

PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2008 9:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use a pin lubricator As seen here

http://www.indianarog.com/restorerstoolbox.htm#86247637
Just a drop does it. If all of that oil is just churned into Mayonnaise, it is out of the system before it does any good anyhow.
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