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Mamodman123
 Steam God!

Joined: 19 Jul 2006 Posts: 31793 Location: Midlands, UK
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Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 1:10 am Post subject: |
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Glad the meaty one is ok Wallace!
But you will always need spares! Best to get some before it becomes too difficult to obtain them. Maybe clean it up and keep it as a display model for the time being?  _________________ Solid Fuel tablets explode
You could get a nice flatbase for that
www.mamodsteam.tk
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Wallace
 Supermoderator

Joined: 19 Jul 2006 Posts: 11349 Location: New South Wales, Australia
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Mamodman123
 Steam God!

Joined: 19 Jul 2006 Posts: 31793 Location: Midlands, UK
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Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 1:19 am Post subject: |
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| Wallace wrote: | As you guys would say
Aye, good idea |
Its usually me that buys the dodgey boilers Wallace  _________________ Solid Fuel tablets explode
You could get a nice flatbase for that
www.mamodsteam.tk
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Wallace
 Supermoderator

Joined: 19 Jul 2006 Posts: 11349 Location: New South Wales, Australia
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Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 1:26 am Post subject: |
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A truly bad run for me, but fits in with my luck of SE2's
Actually, It's a good idea for display you have.
I'll try get it looking like it was from the factory. I have decals to try too, so I'll go the whole hog  _________________
http://www.freewebs.com/mamodsteam/ |
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Mamodman123
 Steam God!

Joined: 19 Jul 2006 Posts: 31793 Location: Midlands, UK
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Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 1:29 am Post subject: |
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| Wallace wrote: | A truly bad run for me, but fits in with my luck of SE2's
Actually, It's a good idea for display you have.
I'll try get it looking like it was from the factory. I have decals to try too, so I'll go the whole hog  |
Aslong as it looks good it will be ok till you figure out what to do with the boiler!
I'm on a bit of a bad run myself, SE2 had a missing thread and an SE1a had a pipe that needed doing
We're the unluckiest mamod buyers  _________________ Solid Fuel tablets explode
You could get a nice flatbase for that
www.mamodsteam.tk
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Wallace
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Joined: 19 Jul 2006 Posts: 11349 Location: New South Wales, Australia
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Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 1:34 am Post subject: |
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Ahh well, our luck should change soon mate, we've had our share.
Sorry to hear about your probs.
I recently had 4 SE2's. Still have 3 of them
First one needed cylinder soldered to block, steam pipe needed soldering, and so did union nut bush
2nd one needed whistle thread fixing, then union nut bush fixing.
3rd one is the problem one. Only needed safety valve bush soldered, but did all. Then end cap turns out to be corroded.
4th gets sent in meat box and held by quarantine.
It makes me wonder with pendragons SE2, what will be in store for me  _________________
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Mamodman123
 Steam God!

Joined: 19 Jul 2006 Posts: 31793 Location: Midlands, UK
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Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 1:36 am Post subject: |
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| Wallace wrote: | Ahh well, our luck should change soon mate, we've had our share.
It makes me wonder with pendragons SE2, what will be in store for me  |
LOL anything could happen Wallace anything  _________________ Solid Fuel tablets explode
You could get a nice flatbase for that
www.mamodsteam.tk
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Wallace
 Supermoderator

Joined: 19 Jul 2006 Posts: 11349 Location: New South Wales, Australia
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Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 7:53 am Post subject: |
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Ok here is the boiler pics.
The darker red/copper coloured type areas is where the white stuff apparently was.
There is very slight pitting here, and I should add it leaks in a couple of these areas.
When I gave the boiler a quick cleanover I noticed the darker areas, but thought nothing of them, and they dissapeared with a light brasso job.
They only re-appeared after steaming engine.
If filled with water, and sat on the bad end, it won't leak water, not even over night. It only leaks once it's up to enough pressure to start running
In the first pic there is one really bad pit/burr. It doesn't leak from there though
Sorry for poor qual pics, but flash and natural sunlight was too bright.
If you have any of this colour in the boiler, then be a little concerned _________________
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Wallace
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Joined: 19 Jul 2006 Posts: 11349 Location: New South Wales, Australia
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Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 7:55 am Post subject: |
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I knew I'd forget something. I just couldn't get a decent pic of other end cap which also leaked. It was too shiny I think
But I couldn't work out why it leaked. Upon looking at it, it has the same discolouring, on the edge of the raised part, only about 3mm long, which is where it leaks  _________________
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flywheel61
 Steam Legend!!

Joined: 12 Nov 2006 Posts: 2604 Location: australia
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Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 10:08 am Post subject: Results from soldering end caps |
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It's probably from leaving water, especially after the unit has been steamed, in the boiler. Most town water supplies are pretty crappy and boiling the water would only concentrate the salts & other chemical that have been added. I know town water kills my native orchids and it's supposed to be potable for human consumption!!! I only use rain water or deionized water in mine. I'm also looking very suspiciously at some of the end caps on the older boilers that have white spots on them.
Just think, you've got three good units and some spare parts now, , as MM said, "Spares are only going to get harder to find".
Cheers
Chris |
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tmuir
 Steam Supreme Being

Joined: 01 Aug 2006 Posts: 14569 Location: Western Australia
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Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 10:34 am Post subject: Re: Results from soldering end caps |
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| flywheel61 wrote: | I only use rain water or deionized water in mine. I'm also looking very suspiciously at some of the end caps on the older boilers that have white spots on them.
Chris |
There has been an ongoing debate about deionised water as to whether or not it is good to use.
The consensus seems to be using deionised water can actually damage the boilers as it removes ions from the solder and boiler causing it to rust.
Rainwater should be fine but distailled water is best.
I also agree that you should empty the boiler after each steaming, leaving water to sit in the boiler is bound to lead to corrosion. _________________ http://www.freewebs.com/ozsteam/index.htm
http://members.iinet.net.au/~tmuir1/
A nice example of an Australian made Scorpion Donkey Engine |
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Wallace
 Supermoderator

Joined: 19 Jul 2006 Posts: 11349 Location: New South Wales, Australia
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Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 11:00 am Post subject: |
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Good points tmuir and Chris.
I recall the deionised water debate, and heard it pulls minerals, or something from the brass.
Distilled I heard is ok though
I generally use boiled water, always empty it, and store without any plugs/safety valves in.
Only probs we have is what the previous owner did.  _________________
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yosa
 Steam Legend!!

Joined: 11 Sep 2006 Posts: 2493 Location: Liverpool
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Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 11:26 am Post subject: |
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Here's an experiment, if you fancy.
Take a zinc block and fully submerge in slightly acidic water, along with the boiler. Due to being so much lower on the electrolitic scale than copper, zinc should migrate and bond to the copper. Might solve the leaks.
Alternatively use for spares as TSC has said.  _________________ He who keeps his head while all about him are losing theirs, doesn't know how serious it is. |
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Wallace
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Joined: 19 Jul 2006 Posts: 11349 Location: New South Wales, Australia
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Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 11:29 am Post subject: |
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It's a thought, that's for sure.
I will keep it for spares.
As the slight corrosion goes from the inside out, it is probably "honeycombed", pulling zinc from deep inside the brass. _________________
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oldstuff
 Steam Legend!!

Joined: 31 Oct 2006 Posts: 2530 Location: Detroit, Michigan, U.S.A.
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Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 11:41 am Post subject: |
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The SE3 I showed recently in restore section has a pitted end cap you can see it in the photos.
Not leaking for now. I remember cleaning it and the more I rubbed, the more spots developed.
I remember thinking at the time that it could be impurities in the metal from when it was cast or poured.  _________________ -Chuck
Twin-cylinder, CSE-3
"Put that in your Dremel!" |
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