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Results from soldering end caps
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Mamodman123


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Joined: 19 Jul 2006
Posts: 31793
Location: Midlands, UK

PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 1:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad the meaty one is ok Wallace!

But you will always need spares! Best to get some before it becomes too difficult to obtain them. Maybe clean it up and keep it as a display model for the time being?
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Wallace


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 1:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As you guys would say

Aye, good idea
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Mamodman123


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 1:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wallace wrote:
As you guys would say

Aye, good idea


Its usually me that buys the dodgey boilers Wallace
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Wallace


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 1:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A truly bad run for me, but fits in with my luck of SE2's

Actually, It's a good idea for display you have.

I'll try get it looking like it was from the factory. I have decals to try too, so I'll go the whole hog
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Mamodman123


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 1:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wallace wrote:
A truly bad run for me, but fits in with my luck of SE2's

Actually, It's a good idea for display you have.

I'll try get it looking like it was from the factory. I have decals to try too, so I'll go the whole hog


Aslong as it looks good it will be ok till you figure out what to do with the boiler!

I'm on a bit of a bad run myself, SE2 had a missing thread and an SE1a had a pipe that needed doing

We're the unluckiest mamod buyers
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Wallace


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 1:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ahh well, our luck should change soon mate, we've had our share.

Sorry to hear about your probs.

I recently had 4 SE2's. Still have 3 of them

First one needed cylinder soldered to block, steam pipe needed soldering, and so did union nut bush

2nd one needed whistle thread fixing, then union nut bush fixing.

3rd one is the problem one. Only needed safety valve bush soldered, but did all. Then end cap turns out to be corroded.

4th gets sent in meat box and held by quarantine.



It makes me wonder with pendragons SE2, what will be in store for me
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Mamodman123


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 1:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wallace wrote:
Ahh well, our luck should change soon mate, we've had our share.




It makes me wonder with pendragons SE2, what will be in store for me


LOL anything could happen Wallace anything
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Wallace


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 7:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok here is the boiler pics.

The darker red/copper coloured type areas is where the white stuff apparently was.
There is very slight pitting here, and I should add it leaks in a couple of these areas.
When I gave the boiler a quick cleanover I noticed the darker areas, but thought nothing of them, and they dissapeared with a light brasso job.
They only re-appeared after steaming engine.

If filled with water, and sat on the bad end, it won't leak water, not even over night. It only leaks once it's up to enough pressure to start running

In the first pic there is one really bad pit/burr. It doesn't leak from there though
Sorry for poor qual pics, but flash and natural sunlight was too bright.










If you have any of this colour in the boiler, then be a little concerned
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Wallace


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 7:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I knew I'd forget something. I just couldn't get a decent pic of other end cap which also leaked. It was too shiny I think

But I couldn't work out why it leaked. Upon looking at it, it has the same discolouring, on the edge of the raised part, only about 3mm long, which is where it leaks
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flywheel61


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Joined: 12 Nov 2006
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Location: australia

PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 10:08 am    Post subject: Results from soldering end caps Reply with quote

It's probably from leaving water, especially after the unit has been steamed, in the boiler. Most town water supplies are pretty crappy and boiling the water would only concentrate the salts & other chemical that have been added. I know town water kills my native orchids and it's supposed to be potable for human consumption!!! I only use rain water or deionized water in mine. I'm also looking very suspiciously at some of the end caps on the older boilers that have white spots on them.
Just think, you've got three good units and some spare parts now, , as MM said, "Spares are only going to get harder to find".

Cheers

Chris
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tmuir


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Joined: 01 Aug 2006
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Location: Western Australia

PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 10:34 am    Post subject: Re: Results from soldering end caps Reply with quote

flywheel61 wrote:
I only use rain water or deionized water in mine. I'm also looking very suspiciously at some of the end caps on the older boilers that have white spots on them.


Chris


There has been an ongoing debate about deionised water as to whether or not it is good to use.

The consensus seems to be using deionised water can actually damage the boilers as it removes ions from the solder and boiler causing it to rust.
Rainwater should be fine but distailled water is best.

I also agree that you should empty the boiler after each steaming, leaving water to sit in the boiler is bound to lead to corrosion.
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Wallace


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 11:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good points tmuir and Chris.

I recall the deionised water debate, and heard it pulls minerals, or something from the brass.

Distilled I heard is ok though

I generally use boiled water, always empty it, and store without any plugs/safety valves in.

Only probs we have is what the previous owner did.
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yosa


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Joined: 11 Sep 2006
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's an experiment, if you fancy.

Take a zinc block and fully submerge in slightly acidic water, along with the boiler. Due to being so much lower on the electrolitic scale than copper, zinc should migrate and bond to the copper. Might solve the leaks.

Alternatively use for spares as TSC has said.
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Wallace


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 11:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a thought, that's for sure.

I will keep it for spares.

As the slight corrosion goes from the inside out, it is probably "honeycombed", pulling zinc from deep inside the brass.
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oldstuff


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Joined: 31 Oct 2006
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Location: Detroit, Michigan, U.S.A.

PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 11:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The SE3 I showed recently in restore section has a pitted end cap you can see it in the photos.
Not leaking for now. I remember cleaning it and the more I rubbed, the more spots developed.
I remember thinking at the time that it could be impurities in the metal from when it was cast or poured.
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