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Mamodman123
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Joined: 19 Jul 2006
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Location: Midlands, UK
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 Posted: Mon Jan 15, 2007 2:05 pm Post subject: |
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G&G badge!
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tmuir
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Location: Western Australia
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yosa
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Joined: 11 Sep 2006
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Location: Liverpool
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| Posted: Mon Jan 15, 2007 2:08 pm Post subject: |
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Is that slotted screw on the end of the boiler correct mate?
I've seen a few engines with a screw instead of a plug, and I always thought it was a repair. 
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Mamodman123
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Joined: 19 Jul 2006
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Location: Midlands, UK
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| Posted: Mon Jan 15, 2007 3:40 pm Post subject: |
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| tmuir wrote: | | Whats happened to the overflow plug in that photo MM? |
Someone got happy with a brass screw and a soldering iron! You can see where they have melted solder and scraped it around the bolt!
Its on the to fix list  ive had it about 5 months 
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Wallace
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Location: New South Wales, Australia
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| Posted: Tue Jan 16, 2007 9:25 am Post subject: |
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MM, I'm wondering, have you ever had to take the end cap off the G&G boilers?
That would be a pain.
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sparky
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Joined: 17 Aug 2006
Posts: 2156
Location: bedfordshire, england
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| Posted: Tue Jan 16, 2007 10:06 am Post subject: |
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| Mamodman123 wrote: | | tmuir wrote: | | Whats happened to the overflow plug in that photo MM? |
Someone got happy with a brass screw and a soldering iron! You can see where they have melted solder and scraped it around the bolt!
Its on the to fix list ive had it about 5 months |
what kind of an idiot would do that lol |
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tmuir
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Joined: 01 Aug 2006
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Location: Western Australia
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| Posted: Tue Jan 16, 2007 10:32 am Post subject: |
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| Wallace wrote: | MM, I'm wondering, have you ever had to take the end cap off the G&G boilers?
That would be a pain. |
From what I've read on silver soldering it takes an even greater temperature to remelt solder once it has flowed into a joint and set, in other words once something is silver soldered together it stays together.
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sparky
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| Posted: Tue Jan 16, 2007 10:33 am Post subject: |
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i know silver solder, core that does burn at high temperature, i used it at school to make a model steam engine before  |
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Wallace
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Location: New South Wales, Australia
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| Posted: Tue Jan 16, 2007 10:36 am Post subject: |
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| tmuir wrote: | | Wallace wrote: | MM, I'm wondering, have you ever had to take the end cap off the G&G boilers?
That would be a pain. |
From what I've read on silver soldering it takes an even greater temperature to remelt solder once it has flowed into a joint and set, in other words once something is silver soldered together it stays together. |
I could imagine Tony.
When I did my SE3 burner, I silver soldered it. It took a lot of heat to get solder flowing. The brass I used was thick too. But in general a oxy is best for it.
I would really avoid a end cap removal on a G&G though, especially from what you said
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Mamodman123
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Joined: 19 Jul 2006
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Location: Midlands, UK
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| Posted: Tue Jan 16, 2007 11:34 am Post subject: |
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| Wallace wrote: | | tmuir wrote: | | Wallace wrote: | MM, I'm wondering, have you ever had to take the end cap off the G&G boilers?
That would be a pain. |
From what I've read on silver soldering it takes an even greater temperature to remelt solder once it has flowed into a joint and set, in other words once something is silver soldered together it stays together. |
I could imagine Tony.
When I did my SE3 burner, I silver soldered it. It took a lot of heat to get solder flowing. The brass I used was thick too. But in general a oxy is best for it.
I would really avoid a end cap removal on a G&G though, especially from what you said |
I tried it Wallace and it won't happen I fear the brass will melt before the solder
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tmuir
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| Posted: Tue Jan 16, 2007 11:38 am Post subject: |
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To get silver solder just to flow the first time round you need the brass to be glowing a dull red, would need to be hotter to melt solder so brass would be that hot any attempt to knock end cap off would suring badly dent the brass if not hole it. 
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Mamodman123
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Joined: 19 Jul 2006
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| Posted: Tue Jan 16, 2007 11:39 am Post subject: |
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| tmuir wrote: | | To get silver solder just to flow the first time round you need the brass to be glowing a dull red, would need to be hotter to melt solder so brass would be that hot any attempt to knock end cap off would suring badly dent the brass if not hole it. |
Yeah, I'm not going to bother knocking it off now! I should be able to do a tidy enough job on it from the outside, but it won't be perfect!
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MooseMan
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| Posted: Tue Jan 16, 2007 12:34 pm Post subject: |
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I think the whole point behind silversoldeing/brazing is that you get a join that, once set, is stronger than the metals it joins.
You need a pretty decent torch to do it - oxy torch is probably best, because you want to get up to temperature really quickly, otherwise the flux will boil away before you get a chance to solder.
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Mamodman123
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Joined: 19 Jul 2006
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Location: Midlands, UK
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| Posted: Tue Jan 16, 2007 12:37 pm Post subject: |
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| MooseMan wrote: | I think the whole point behind silversoldeing/brazing is that you get a join that, once set, is stronger than the metals it joins.
You need a pretty decent torch to do it - oxy torch is probably best, because you want to get up to temperature really quickly, otherwise the flux will boil away before you get a chance to solder. |
I was using my dads heavy duty plumbers Torch! I'll leave it and bodge it from the outside
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Wallace
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Location: New South Wales, Australia
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| Posted: Wed Jan 17, 2007 7:19 am Post subject: |
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So you tried it MM?
I guess one good thing is at least none of it will desolder, when fixing a thread with soft solder from the outside
As mooseman (and myself) said you really need an oxy.
I had to use a propane plumbers torch to do my burner, and even then I only just managed. There are different rates of soft solder too, that will melt at different temps.
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