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New jewelers saw
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Dean W


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 4:28 am    Post subject: New jewelers saw Reply with quote

'

Been using the same ol' saw frame since the late 1980's.  It was a cheapo import when I got it, but I got so used to it
over the years, and having a second very old one, I never got around to replacing the kind of crummy one.

Now the frame is getting fatigued, and the rivets starting to loosen so the blade won't stay where I want it.

It doesn't look bad, but it's getting that way:





So, time for a new one.  Looking on ebay I found a seller in the States selling new Grobets.  They must
be a common style, because I saw a couple of others that look exactly the same, but different name.  

The new one seems very modern:



It was only $14, which I thought was a pretty good price.  It's so much easier getting a blade to stay tight.
The blade locks are very positive, while on the old one they often let blade ends slip, which means a broken
blade as soon as it gets a little slack in it.

New one also has an interchangeable handle, so I can put on whatever handle shape suits me:



I kind of like that, and pretty much like the new saw frame all around.  Nice that it cuts the way I point it!

Dean
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mogogear


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 4:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice looking saw Dean!!...You read my mind. As I have been cutting many wood trim pieces to replace missing and broken parts on my  "Whale" ship project I thought I should start a thread about singing the praises of these saws.

I had never really known about "fret or jewelers saws" before I saw Tony over and over using one with such ease. I thank him every time I pick it up to use.

I have to say that it is much easier to get exact and smooth cuts than with my power table scroll saw.

It feels so good to use--Yours is very nice - Swiss ehh? I think mine is German.

To every one that reads this - if you do not own one of these small and accurate saws and the wooden cutting V block to place the work on--GO GET ONE TODAY - it will become one of your most used and beloved tools!!
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scorpion2nz


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 4:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

" Nice that it cuts the way I point it!"

that is always a big advantage

I just wish my chainsaw would do the same
 
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Dean W


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 4:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

scorpion2nz wrote:
I just wish my chainsaw would do the same


It probably will if you can get the teeth on the chain sharpened the same amount on each side.  
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Kmot


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 4:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice looking saw, Dean.

I recently had to buy a new coping saw (same deal) and I bought a Kobalt brand from Lowes. It's a cheapie but it does the job.
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mogogear


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 5:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kmot wrote:
Nice looking saw, Dean.

I recently had to buy a new coping saw (same deal) and I bought a Kobalt brand from Lowes. It's a cheapie but it does the job.


Tom....I heartily recommend you  to splurge and waste another $12 or so--a coping saw is just not the same. These little devils are so nice and the will use the tiny spiral blades for scroll saws also.

I have a couple of coping saws and a nice power scroll but this fellow has made me forget them all except for rough cutting to get pieces down to size.

also one of these little fellows



$8 and made of hard wood--perfect companion to start with

the wood V block is only about 7" long
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Last edited by mogogear on Sat Mar 26, 2011 5:49 am; edited 1 time in total
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tmuir


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 5:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I probably should replace mine too, but it was my grandfathers and I like using it for sentimental reasons.

This is it here

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Dean W


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 6:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

'

I should get one of those things you show, Greg.  For an age now I've just used a short plank with a "V" shape
cut into it.  That's worked okay for years, except I have to clamp it to the bench with a C-clamp, which sometimes
gets in the way of larger sheets of material.

Some kind of V block is a necessity.  I think the lack of one is a main reason people new to a jewelers saw get
so many broken blades.  That, and they put the blade in upside down and try to use it like a carpenter's saw.

Tony, that's a nice old saw from your grandad.  No need for a new one if the frame stays rigid.   Unless you want one.  
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BK


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dean W wrote:
scorpion2nz wrote:
I just wish my chainsaw would do the same


It probably will if you can get the teeth on the chain sharpened the same amount on each side.  


Spot on Dean, it's all in the sharpening, and don't wait till it wont cut to sharpen it, I learnt all about them years ago.  
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tmuir


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 9:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mogogear wrote:



also one of these little fellows



$8 and made of hard wood--perfect companion to start with

the wood V block is only about 7" long


I have one of those too, very useful.
Another use of the v block is for squareing off the end of small rods or bars. You drill a hole that is a snug fit for the rod and push the end up until its just proud of the wood and file it back to the wood which gives you a new square finish on the end.
Important for butt joining in jewellery work.
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Kmot


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 3:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What does the wood v-block do for you?
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tmuir


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 4:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Basicallly it gives you a surface you can hold a small bit of sheet metal ontop of and use the jewellers saw to cut the bit of metal out.
The 'V' is where the saw blade goes.
The saw is held so it goes up and down, not across like a wood saw.
Also being wood is you blade touches it it won't damage the blade and if you wear out the bit of wood you just replace it, not something so easily done if it is your workbench you've cut into.

It is used when you need to cut out by hand small intricate items that holding it in a vice wouldn't give you enough control.
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Tony Bird


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 5:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,
A usefull looking Piercing Saw frame Dean.
The photograph is of the 3 different size saws I use with 3",4" & 6" throats. Always use the smallest throat size you can get away with as the saw is lighter and the blade tighter. The photograph also shows the front of the work area of my bench. screwed to its front is a sacrificial piece of wood which is sawn into, the 'G' clamp is used to hold sheets of metal down for sawing and marking out. There is also a 'Peg' which is used for filing work pieces as well as sawing them. This is a new one just made, I have worn a lot of them out.

Piercing saws are 'Handed' in that the saw blade securing wing nuts can be on either side of the frame. If you are right handed the wing nuts should also be on the rigt hand side of the frame it stops them hitting your left hand which is holding the work piece down when sawing. If you are ambidextrous you replace the wing nuts with bolts and use an Allen key. If cutting very thin metal use double sided tape to hold it to some plywood and cut through both materials at the same time.
Hope this is helpful.
Regards Tony.
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MrMamod


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 6:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tony Bird wrote:
Hi,
A usefull looking Piercing Saw frame Dean.
The photograph is of the 3 different size saws I use with 3",4" & 6" throats. Always use the smallest throat size you can get away with as the saw is lighter and the blade tighter. The photograph also shows the front of the work area of my bench. screwed to its front is a sacrificial piece of wood which is sawn into, the 'G' clamp is used to hold sheets of metal down for sawing and marking out. There is also a 'Peg' which is used for filing work pieces as well as sawing them. This is a new one just made, I have worn a lot of them out.

Piercing saws are 'Handed' in that the saw blade securing wing nuts can be on either side of the frame. If you are right handed the wing nuts should also be on the rigt hand side of the frame it stops them hitting your left hand which is holding the work piece down when sawing. If you are ambidextrous you replace the wing nuts with bolts and use an Allen key. If cutting very thin metal use double sided tape to hold it to some plywood and cut through both materials at the same time.
Hope this is helpful.
Regards Tony.


Thankyou Tony there was extra usefull info in your post
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Kmot


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 8:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you tmuir and Tony Bird for the excellent info.
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