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toxx
 Steam Legend!!

Joined: 23 Jun 2007 Posts: 2170 Location: Vienna, Austria
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Posted: Sun Aug 05, 2007 12:40 pm Post subject: Opening Mamod boiler |
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Yo, dear friends! Received my Mamod SR1a yesterday. Bought her for 70 Euros via ebay. She's used, but in good shape. The water level sight glass is a tick foggy, though. Is it safe to take out the screws, remove the key-hole shaped frame and clean it? Is there any trick or complication I should be aware of? Don't want to spoil anything ...
Thank you guys for your advice!
Says Tom  _________________ Says Tom
... keine Wunder sind vollbracht.
No miracles ... yet. |
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tmuir
 Steam Supreme Being

Joined: 01 Aug 2006 Posts: 14015 Location: Western Australia
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Posted: Sun Aug 05, 2007 1:08 pm Post subject: |
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You can buy replacement sight glasses for Mamod boilers either off ebay or from forest classics but once removed they can be a bugger to reseal.
Only remove it if you really have to and if you do I recommend to go buy some high temp plumbers silicon and put a tiny bit on each side of the gasket before you refit it _________________ http://www.freewebs.com/ozsteam/index.htm
http://members.iinet.net.au/~tmuir1/
A nice example of an Australian made Scorpion Donkey Engine |
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mj
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Posted: Sun Aug 05, 2007 1:36 pm Post subject: |
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| You could try a 50/50 mix of of vinegar\hot water in the boiler & soak the glass for about an hour. This can have quite dramtic results in cleaning the limescale from the glass. Doesn't always work , but is worth trying before removing the sight glass. |
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Mamodman123
 Steam God!

Joined: 19 Jul 2006 Posts: 31222 Location: Midlands, UK
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Posted: Sun Aug 05, 2007 2:48 pm Post subject: |
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I wouldn't recommend moving the sight glass unless its screwed into the boiler! If its rivets then leave it in there! _________________ Solid Fuel tablets explode
You could get a nice flatbase for that
www.mamodsteam.tk
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toxx
 Steam Legend!!

Joined: 23 Jun 2007 Posts: 2170 Location: Vienna, Austria
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Posted: Sun Aug 05, 2007 6:31 pm Post subject: |
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... thank you for your tips and hints! I got the fog out. First, I let a bit of "Durgol" (water stain remover) soak in the boiler for an hour. Then I rinsed it out, took a Q-Tip, bent it into shape and stuck the swab into the whistle opening. The misty fog wiped away nicely!
Kind greetz,
Tom _________________ Says Tom
... keine Wunder sind vollbracht.
No miracles ... yet. |
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toxx
 Steam Legend!!

Joined: 23 Jun 2007 Posts: 2170 Location: Vienna, Austria
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Posted: Mon Aug 06, 2007 12:36 pm Post subject: |
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Dear friends! Fired up the SR1a after thoroughly cleaning her - she worked like a charm! Though I have to get used to the osciliating cylinder. How far should I fill up the boiler? This first time, I filled it to the lower rim 'o' of the keyhole shaped glas. And still, when I toot-tooted the whistle, I was rewarded with a hissing sound not unlike a cat whose tail has been stepped on (just guessing, as a canine unit and feline unit fan) and a decent spray of boiling water. Later, as the pressure sank (bubbles in the sight glas now beginning in the very lower section of the glass and reaching up to about the 'o' of the keyhole) she whistled quite nicely.
Thanx for your advice says
Tom _________________ Says Tom
... keine Wunder sind vollbracht.
No miracles ... yet. |
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IndianaRog
 Steam Legend!!

Joined: 26 Dec 2006 Posts: 6153 Location: Indiana, USA
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Posted: Mon Aug 06, 2007 12:40 pm Post subject: |
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toxx...I never fill boilers more than about 2/3 full of water, otherwise you get water spitting out your whistle and drowning your piston periodically until it gets down a bit. I guess that was the logic behind the inclusion of steam domes on some engines...get the steam pickup as high above the water as possible so as to avoid pushing water thru the lines.
Experience usually teaches the above pretty quickly...each engine is a bit different, but 2/3 full is a good starting place.
cheers,
Rog _________________ Visit IndianaRog and The Temple of Steam: www.indianarog.com |
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Mamodman123
 Steam God!

Joined: 19 Jul 2006 Posts: 31222 Location: Midlands, UK
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Posted: Mon Aug 06, 2007 1:24 pm Post subject: |
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fill it up to the mark on the sight glass where two metal pieces almost meet. ITs about 3/4 of the way up on the glass! _________________ Solid Fuel tablets explode
You could get a nice flatbase for that
www.mamodsteam.tk
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toxx
 Steam Legend!!

Joined: 23 Jun 2007 Posts: 2170 Location: Vienna, Austria
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Posted: Mon Aug 06, 2007 1:35 pm Post subject: |
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| IndianaRog wrote: | toxx...
Experience usually teaches the above pretty quickly...each engine is a bit different, but 2/3 full is a good starting place.
cheers,
Rog |
Dear Rog! Thanks for your help! I filled her about 2/3 - I think. I pinpointed the spot on the picture. I thought that level to be moderate ... up to where should I fill her to avoid being sprayed by scalding water?
Kind greetz sends
Tom
 _________________ Says Tom
... keine Wunder sind vollbracht.
No miracles ... yet. |
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Mamodman123
 Steam God!

Joined: 19 Jul 2006 Posts: 31222 Location: Midlands, UK
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Posted: Mon Aug 06, 2007 1:37 pm Post subject: |
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Perfect! exactly the right amount of water in there! _________________ Solid Fuel tablets explode
You could get a nice flatbase for that
www.mamodsteam.tk
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rangerssteamtoys
 Steam Legend!!

Joined: 17 Jul 2007 Posts: 2126 Location: Houston Texas, USA
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Posted: Mon Aug 06, 2007 1:39 pm Post subject: |
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Thats where I fill my steam car up to.In the beginning it wont run because theres water in the lines but after about 2 minutes it works. _________________ Best Regards, Ranger Moore |
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tmuir
 Steam Supreme Being

Joined: 01 Aug 2006 Posts: 14015 Location: Western Australia
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Posted: Mon Aug 06, 2007 2:17 pm Post subject: |
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| rangerssteamtoys wrote: | | Thats where I fill my steam car up to.In the beginning it wont run because theres water in the lines but after about 2 minutes it works. |
It could even being just that for the first 2 mins the pipe work is cold and its condensing the steam before it gets to your cylinder.
I have noticed with the extra regulator and oiler in my loco it takes an extra 10 to 20 seconds to get it to go as it heats up all this extra pipe work _________________ http://www.freewebs.com/ozsteam/index.htm
http://members.iinet.net.au/~tmuir1/
A nice example of an Australian made Scorpion Donkey Engine |
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rangerssteamtoys
 Steam Legend!!

Joined: 17 Jul 2007 Posts: 2126 Location: Houston Texas, USA
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Posted: Mon Aug 06, 2007 2:19 pm Post subject: |
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| tmuir wrote: | | rangerssteamtoys wrote: | | Thats where I fill my steam car up to.In the beginning it wont run because theres water in the lines but after about 2 minutes it works. |
It could even being just that for the first 2 mins the pipe work is cold and its condensing the steam before it gets to your cylinder.
I have noticed with the extra regulator and oiler in my loco it takes an extra 10 to 20 seconds to get it to go as it heats up all this extra pipe work |
Thats probably it right there, the steam has to warm up all the piping and the cylinder and block then it runs _________________ Best Regards, Ranger Moore |
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Mamodman123
 Steam God!

Joined: 19 Jul 2006 Posts: 31222 Location: Midlands, UK
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Posted: Mon Aug 06, 2007 2:24 pm Post subject: |
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Best thing to do is just work it through the system on a loco by going backwards and forwards for a few seconds then you're ready to go! _________________ Solid Fuel tablets explode
You could get a nice flatbase for that
www.mamodsteam.tk
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tmuir
 Steam Supreme Being

Joined: 01 Aug 2006 Posts: 14015 Location: Western Australia
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Posted: Mon Aug 06, 2007 2:31 pm Post subject: |
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| Mamodman123 wrote: | | Best thing to do is just work it through the system on a loco by going backwards and forwards for a few seconds then you're ready to go! |
Yes thats what I do, usually get boiling oil water landing on my hand when I do that but thats all part of the fun.  _________________ http://www.freewebs.com/ozsteam/index.htm
http://members.iinet.net.au/~tmuir1/
A nice example of an Australian made Scorpion Donkey Engine |
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