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Modifying William
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Titan


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Joined: 19 Jul 2006
Posts: 685
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2007 7:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Possibly,  I want to add a bunker and rear panel to the cab, which if I cannot get a good match to the mamod green would neccesitate a repaint in order to look good.  I am getting inclined towards Great Eastern Railway Blue.
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Last edited by Titan on Thu Dec 06, 2007 12:12 am; edited 1 time in total
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bessytractor


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Joined: 31 Dec 2006
Posts: 2406
Location: Chertsey, Surrey

PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2007 11:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hmmm that would be nice, well if it will look as good as Titan it will be worth waiting for!
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CCairns


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Joined: 24 Apr 2007
Posts: 1298
Location: Glasgow, Scotland

PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2007 12:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is possible to top up the lubricator during running by closing the regulator valve, but I find mine has the top half too close to the smokebox, plus it gets very hot as well, so you need some asbestos fingers to get it off and refilled!

Chris Cairns.
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tmuir


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Joined: 01 Aug 2006
Posts: 13780
Location: Western Australia

PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2007 12:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

CCairns wrote:
It is possible to top up the lubricator during running by closing the regulator valve, but I find mine has the top half too close to the smokebox, plus it gets very hot as well, so you need some asbestos fingers to get it off and refilled!

Chris Cairns.



Hmm a top up valve fitted to the top of the oiler and a syringe full of steam oil?

Might work and save you some burnt fingers
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Titan


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2007 1:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unfortunately it is not as easy as that. In order to put the oil in you have to get the water out first, which means that you have to remove the bottom part and shake the water out. Not an easy job if the loco is in steam sitting on the track.

Alternatively a syringe with a largeish hypodermic needle might fit past the steam pipe - there is not much space in there - and you could suck the water out.
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tmuir


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2007 1:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Titan wrote:
Unfortunately it is not as easy as that. In order to put the oil in you have to get the water out first, which means that you have to remove the bottom part and shake the water out. Not an easy job if the loco is in steam sitting on the track.

Alternatively a syringe with a largeish hypodermic needle might fit past the steam pipe - there is not much space in there - and you could suck the water out.




Doh I should know that. I've got two locos with Roundhouse lubricators. Must be tired and not thinking properly.
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Titan


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2007 11:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

And the first of the cosmetic enhancements -

Before:



The poor standard of finish on the buffers shows up on this photo - you can see where they have been dressed with a file, pressumably to address poor quality turning.

After:



Starting to look less like a toy and more like a model !

The smokebox door is the one normally used as an upgrade for a TE1a, but is just the right size for William, and still allowing enough space to remove the top of the lubricator.

The coupling is a tenmille chopper coupling, modified to look more like a Festiniog Railway type and held on by 4 10BA screws. Buffers removed and replaced by 4BA brass Hex. head bolts.  This one is as much for operational reasons as cosmetic, as now I have a useful coupling on the front which matches the rest of my rolling stock.
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steamyjim


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2007 12:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking a lot better! Id quite like to get one, but id want a top up valve

Those buffers it had origionally are terribly finished!
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tmuir


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2007 12:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I do like that coupling, looks heaps better already.
If I could get a gauge 1 version for a good price I might even be tempted now.
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steamyjim


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2007 12:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
If I could get a gauge 1 version for a good price I might even be tempted now.


Same
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SillyBilly


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2007 12:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks miles better. I can live without a top-up valve on my mamod, after one run, I'm fed up with chasing it around peoples gardens and watching it de-rail!
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steamyjim


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Joined: 27 Oct 2006
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Location: Pensford Somerset

PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2007 12:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Looks miles better. I can live without a top-up valve on my mamod, after one run, I'm fed up with chasing it around peoples gardens and watching it de-rail!


I very rarely derail my Mamod I crashed it into buffers several times though
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bessytractor


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2007 8:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

now that looks miles better.  That smokebox door is excellent value I think.
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Mamodman123


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Joined: 19 Jul 2006
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2007 8:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A lot lot better!

I'd lose the side stickers though  
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You could get a nice flatbase for that

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CCairns


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Joined: 24 Apr 2007
Posts: 1298
Location: Glasgow, Scotland

PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2007 7:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Titan - I like the smokebox modification, but I'm not a fan of those oversized chopper couplings. If I do modify mine I will fit some multi height couplings instead.

William Gauge 1 - Chas mentions on his website it is possible to modify the William to Gauge 1, but no mention of costs. It would need some spacers on the new wheelsets to ensure the valve gear eccentric works properly, and as well as additional gaskets to move the valve gear and cylinders outboard, it would need new threaded inserts to allow for the increased distance between chassis and cylinder outward face. Given that these are not selling well is there a market for a Gauge 1 conversion? - Mamod did make one available for the old SL series, and was included in the SL1K kits.

Chris Cairns.
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