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Modifying William
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bessytractor


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Joined: 31 Dec 2006
Posts: 2432
Location: Chertsey, Surrey

PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2007 9:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

CCairns wrote:
Titan - I like the smokebox modification, but I'm not a fan of those oversized chopper couplings. If I do modify mine I will fit some multi height couplings instead.

William Gauge 1 - Chas mentions on his website it is possible to modify the William to Gauge 1, but no mention of costs. It would need some spacers on the new wheelsets to ensure the valve gear eccentric works properly, and as well as additional gaskets to move the valve gear and cylinders outboard, it would need new threaded inserts to allow for the increased distance between chassis and cylinder outward face. Given that these are not selling well is there a market for a Gauge 1 conversion? - Mamod did make one available for the old SL series, and was included in the SL1K kits.


Chris Cairns.


I was under the impression the choppers were scale.
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SillyBilly


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2007 10:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought they sold a 45mm William?

The Tenmille choppers stick out a long way because they're based on L&B couplings, they certainly look nicer in the same shape as the worlds most wonderful railway uses! Personally I prefer the Accucraft choppers, a lot easier to use.
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tmuir


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Joined: 01 Aug 2006
Posts: 14444
Location: Western Australia

PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2007 11:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SillyBilly wrote:
I thought they sold a 45mm William?


I'm pretty sure they do but my chances of getting second hand one cheap at the moment is about zero.  
And unlike the regular Mamod locos these require a lot more modding to change gauge.
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Titan


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Joined: 19 Jul 2006
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Location: Derby

PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2007 12:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SillyBilly wrote:
I thought they sold a 45mm William?

The Tenmille choppers stick out a long way because they're based on L&B couplings, they certainly look nicer in the same shape as the worlds most wonderful railway uses! Personally I prefer the Accucraft choppers, a lot easier to use.


Mamod did do a limited run of Gauge 1 Williams, but these are no longer produced.

Not quite sure exactly how scale the Tenmile couplings are, but as has been said they are based on the L&B type which is square and bigger than FR.  Also they do a 'compact' version, which does not stick out so far.  This compact one I am using on the front, but I have a standard one on the rear on account that I am going to stick a bunker on the back and the extra length will help with clearance on the tight Mamod curves.
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SillyBilly


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2007 12:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The L&B ones just have a square head, it's practically the same size head. They stick out way to far on the L&B, not a big fan of the HUGE springs either. On 'LYD' it has just got and FfR chopper with a square head.
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bessytractor


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Joined: 31 Dec 2006
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Location: Chertsey, Surrey

PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 10:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://mr.photos.gb.com/p46702809.html

dome maybe Titan?
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Titan


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 10:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bessytractor wrote:
http://mr.photos.gb.com/p46702809.html

dome maybe Titan?


Hmm maybe, not sure if I would put it over the safety valve mind!!
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SillyBilly


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 4:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why not? You can easily drill a hole in the dome, have the saftey valve pin sticking out, it'd be great.
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MTA


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 4:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You'd be following Drummond practice if you mounted the dome over the safety valve Although on the full size they are mounted on top of the dome...
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SillyBilly


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 5:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Farlies have them in the dome, so do Isle of Man engines. best place for them, being at the highest place. Another reason for an I.P regulator, all this nonsense about them causing priming is a load of bulls**t!
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Titan


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 12:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Or maybe I could do something GWR Style?

Anyway, at long last I have managed to find time to do a test run to check out the modifications.

The first run was a bit of a disaster. I managed to fill the boiler too full, and it primed a bit which carried some muck into the throttle valve ensuring that it did not go.  So run was aborted and when cool the valve was dismantled and the boiler was connected to an air compressor, which blew whatever was stuck out at about 80 psi  

Anyway, the loco was reassembled and all consumables topped up, putting slightly less water in the boiler - I just cannot read the gauge glass without a reflector in it, it is as good as useless. I just fill it up to overflowing, and then suck out about 40 cc with a syringe which seems to be about right.

Now for the purposes of this trial I am raising steam starting with cold water - the gas tank has more than enough capacity and on at least one occasion I have run out of water before running out of gas.

After steam was raised the loco was pushed forward and back a little until the water cleared from the cylinders, two coaches hooked up, the stopwatch started and off we went.  Well the first five minutes were spent tinkering with the gas and throttle settings to try and get it to run at the right speed without wasting steam by blowing off, and after that it settled down to a steady speed if still slightly on the fast side.

So then I just sat back and let it run. It managed a virtually constant speed for the next ten minutes, but then it started to slow a little. Being conscious of the fact that the water can run out before the gas, and that the burner did not seem to have died down I decided not to take any chances and shut off the gas.

Total Elapsed time from when it first started hauling the train 16 mins.

When the loco had cooled, inspection showed that a) it still had water, b) it still had gas, and c) it still had oil !!

So the results look quite promising - I am hoping that it should be able to exceed 20 mins run time as it is, which I think is quite respectable.

I also checked the piston valve and piston rod for signs of oil, basically to make sure that the lubricator was doing its job. The piston valves had a good film of oil on them, but the piston rods were a little on the dry side, although there was some oil getting to them. This might just be that the position that they are in tends to mean they do not pick up as much oil from the steam as the valves do.

Now one thing I am thinking of - the sight glass appears to be held in by screws rather than riveted, and I do have a spare reflector from an SL1. Maybe, just maybe it will fit, and I might actually get to see how much water is in the thing !!
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Last edited by Titan on Thu Dec 06, 2007 12:21 am; edited 1 time in total
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tmuir


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Joined: 01 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 12:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

16 minutes is not a bad run, glad its all coming together.
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bessytractor


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Joined: 31 Dec 2006
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 12:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

wow its all going swimmingly then

The modern Titan is on its way.  Now you need a way to RC it!
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Mamodman123


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Joined: 19 Jul 2006
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 9:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow thats a decent run! Must be the extra boiler capacity? Either way its a nice run considering there was still water and gas left for more  
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You could get a nice flatbase for that

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Graham-Jilly


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 9:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wish i could get a 16 min run out of mine  
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