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Some basic R/C starter questions
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mogogear


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Joined: 01 Feb 2008
Posts: 946
Location: Portland Oregon

PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 11:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Snagged a Hitec Ranger here in town- $39 --NO SHIPPING-  

What else do I need ???

Oh, yeah............... the boat and engine to arrive in the mail. !!
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Mo

This week I are Bishop Lord Mo, the Antique of Bismorton Shropcake
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tmuir


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Joined: 01 Aug 2006
Posts: 13780
Location: Western Australia

PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 1:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just make sure your bench test the motor before you fit it just in case it has any problems it will be easier to fix with it out of the boat.
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A nice example of an Australian made Scorpion Donkey Engine
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mogogear


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Joined: 01 Feb 2008
Posts: 946
Location: Portland Oregon

PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 2:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

good advice- keep it coming!! Anybody is welcome to chime in anytime-

I have my ears on
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Mo

This week I are Bishop Lord Mo, the Antique of Bismorton Shropcake
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MooseMan


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Joined: 13 Aug 2006
Posts: 4142
Location: Cardiff

PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 10:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Invest in a bunch of good quality NiMh rechargeable batteries, otherwise you'll spend your life savings buying batteries. I use 2600mAh batteries - 12 in total for the HiTec set. If you buy the HiTec wall charger, you can charge the batteries in situ, very handy.
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mogogear


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Joined: 01 Feb 2008
Posts: 946
Location: Portland Oregon

PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 4:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep- have digital camera= eats rechargables as fast as I can charge them..... hip to nimh.... I don't figure I will off for the premade battery pack .....

On the charger do you need to have a Hitec one or is any wall charger that burps out the correct amp/volt cool ( that fits the outlet of course ) do- able ?

It also looks as if the original rudder shaft is a brass tube- The rudder sets I have seen look like they are made to insert through a brass tube . For quick in and out I assume?

Artistic-wise I am thinking about doing some tooled embossing on the front "spray" cover- the  arched metal half-cone that pops in to place..

I would like to use copper for this so I can use various oxidizers to selectively color details... as a concept - does anyone see  a problem with this concept?
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Mo

This week I are Bishop Lord Mo, the Antique of Bismorton Shropcake
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MooseMan


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Joined: 13 Aug 2006
Posts: 4142
Location: Cardiff

PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 4:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mo, I think the chargers are universal - the one I bought came with a double lead, obe for the transmitter and one for the receiver lead. AFAIK HiTec connectors are pretty standard.

Normal practice for the propshaft is to run through a brass tube, although in modern boats you get more fancy affairs with sealed bearings. The brass tubes work fine for me, and are easily replaced.....1/8" rod will fit into a 3/16" tube etc.
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mogogear


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Joined: 01 Feb 2008
Posts: 946
Location: Portland Oregon

PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 4:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Prop - I have in place through a tube---It seals in place with the lube used - I assume?

The rudder  is the previous question----Yours is through a brass tube also?
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Mo

This week I are Bishop Lord Mo, the Antique of Bismorton Shropcake
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MooseMan


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Joined: 13 Aug 2006
Posts: 4142
Location: Cardiff

PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2008 4:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eeeeep....didn't read that properly. Yep, on the Bowman boats the rudder runs trhough a brass tube, but it's of no consequence as the entire rudder is mounted off the stern. In my arrow the rudder runs into the stern compartment through a plastic tube, which makes a good seal, but as the tube is above the waterline there is no problem with leakage anyway.
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