The Unofficial Mamod and Other Steam Forum

Nick · Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2008 2:20 am Post subject: Nick's Jensen Overflow 60

This is my Jensen 60 with an overflow screw that I am cleaning up:

Nick · Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2008 2:25 am Post subject:

Here is the boiler after polishing. The brass is very visible and so are scratches:

johnreid · Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2008 2:29 am Post subject:

I would reassemble it, then place the appropriate amount of water in the boiler, put some Esbit in the tray, light the Esbit and run it. Thats what it was made for.
Getting it plated is going to be too expensive and the effort to remove the Nickel will probably wear the brass down. Leaving the best solution, use it as is.
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Nick · Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2008 2:31 am Post subject:

I think Mark took the nickel off a Jensen and had just brass, I don't think it would look too bad. Right now, with all the pitting, the boiler looks like hell.

IndianaRog · Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2008 2:35 am Post subject:

Nick, you have less than 50% nickel as it stands, it is not a super rare engine, so I would personally remove the nickel that is there vs. live with it as is or plate it.

I have done it several times...remove boiler, get yourself a scrubby pad like used to clean pots and pans and with a can of Ajax or other powdered cleanser, start scrubbing. Rinse under running water at the kitchen sink. I've done one completely that way in about 30 min. and was very pleased with the overall results. Small steamline, whistle, SV and cylinder etc. need to be done with a Dremel and one of Dremel's rough scrubby looking thing that goes on same as a grinding disk but is a bit more gentle. Frankly you could do the whole boiler with one, but have to be careful as it will gouge the brass if pressed too hard.

You "could" get the works re-nickel plated, but I would expect you would have to pay around $75 as it involves something called "burnishing" before plating to get the pits out. Burnishing is a fancy name for polishing...finish is only as good as the brass surface beneath. After plating it gets polished again but more gently. I have had it done to the boiler and select pieces of the Jensen 50 I converted to a 51 replica...18 months ago that cost me $140 plus shipping to and from. Very pleased with their work, but it was several months of waiting as well.

Personally I would go with brass look myself if later you decided to nickel plate it, no harm...

Rog
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Nick · Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2008 2:38 am Post subject:

Do you mean a Scotch-brite pad? I think the boiler is the only thing I'll mess with, the steam line looks like it may polish up nice.

johnreid · Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2008 2:40 am Post subject:

I didnt think that the Nickel would come off that easily, you learn something every day.
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Nick · Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2008 2:41 am Post subject:

The nickel on this one seems very thin compared to my 35.

Nick · Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2008 2:44 am Post subject:

johnreid · Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2008 2:46 am Post subject:

ScotchBrite comes in various abrasive grades. I guess the from my Photo background an all of the Stainless that had to be used, I am a big ScotchBrite fan. If you use Steel wool on a piece of Stainless it will rust, however brass doesnt rust.
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IndianaRog · Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2008 2:57 am Post subject:

Nick, I meant the Scotch Brite sort of pads...usually green, sometimes bonded to a sponge.

One caveat...once you convert boilers to all brass finish, you have to polish them from time to time, they discolor fairly fast vs. nickel, but you probably know that from other brass boilers you have.

If you don't denickel the rest of the bits besides boiler, it might look sort of odd being two toned

Rog
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Nick · Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2008 3:00 am Post subject:

Since I can always remove the nickel, but can't bring it back, I am going to start with just the boiler, to see what it looks like.

I got a start on a side of the boiler and I really like the brass underneath.

I will have a picture up in about 15 minutes.

Nick · Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2008 3:11 am Post subject:

These are the steps I took for removing the nickel and polishing the brass (the "tools" are sitting there in order):

1. I used a 3M "stripping pad" to remove the nickel (very abrasive).

2. Then, I used a 3M "between coats finishing pad (replaces 00 steel wool).

3. Next, I squeezed some simichrome onto 0000 steel wool and polished the boiler.

4. Last, I took a 100% cotton t-shirt with simichrome and plished the brass to a mirror-finish.

Remember, I did this in about 5 minutes, so there may be a few imperfections yet.

johnreid · Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2008 3:31 am Post subject:

Next time put you clothes on when taking a picture

That shined up remarkable well, I am amazed. Impressive Nick.

I also think that Semichrome is on my to get list.
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Nick · Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2008 3:35 am Post subject: