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Rebuilding a TE1a into a Showmans engine (project Sovereign)
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syrtismajor


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Joined: 23 Apr 2007
Posts: 385
Location: Salisbury

PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2007 10:59 am    Post subject: Rebuilding a TE1a into a Showmans engine (project Sovereign) Reply with quote

Welcome to the ongoing saga of syrtismajors rather fool hardy attempt to modify an early nineties Mamod TE1a without the aid of a lathe, milling machine, a pillar drill or any previous engineering experience.
The challenge I set myself was to turn it into a reasonable likeness of a showmans engine including a dynamo and working lights (diodes). I also decided to ‘up’ the power by increasing its operating pressure, designing and building a brand new cylinder, gearing down with gears rather than the ubiquitous ‘steel band’ and installing a regulator. All using nothing but a Dremel, a junior hacksaw, a few thousand sheets of wet & dry and a bit of hard work.
I basically wanted to turn this:

Into this:


After a few months of mental planning, something arrived in the post from the magical land of ebay:

And lo, the engine to be known as ‘Sovereign’ was in my possession.

The first mission was to strip into component parts and give a deep clean, after assessing engine:

Mechanics assessment would have been, ‘Whoah, you bought this? *laughs* Nothing but a paperweight!’

Well, it wasn’t that bad, just a bit of scorching, loaded with grease rather than oil, absolutely filthy and by some paranormal action, a 10mm wide lump of loose solder in the boiler. Luckily it wasn’t as thick as it was wide and came out after some careful persuasion (Shaking vigorously and swearing).
The hub caps came off like a dream (after more swearing, wrenching, mild injuries and a hacksaw) and the wheels were cleaned. The piston eventually came out of the cylinder, along with a black mass that could be classified as another life form.
The final result was this rather sorry pile of brass and steel (those with a weak stomach, look away now):

Some paint is missing as I am currently stripping it for the future repaint. The chimney is missing as I have already done a swap for the solid flywheel seen in the picture. The canopy isn't there as I'm not planning to use it, but will need some restoration if I'm to pass it on to someone.

From now on, I plan to update with every major completion of a stage. But will give loads of updates with any little thing. I’m trying to do the cylinder first to convince people that I am not mad. I am borrowing my step dad’s drill to finish off the cylinder blocks this weekend, and I have also already decided to build my own regulator and lubricator.

Dear lord, what have I let myself in for?

I will also have a running total to show cost. The mission is to do this for less than £200.

Cost so far = £40.00 for engine and £7.00 for blowtorch = £47.00

(ps) I have been working on this for a while now but am taking the opportunity to do this first post today as I am off work. My partner had a car accident yesterday due to someone kindly driving their car into the back of hers, she’s perfectly fine but we didn’t get out of the hospital until 2:00 am so work today was the last thing on my mind.
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Steve_S


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Joined: 26 Aug 2006
Posts: 3213
Location: Leeds UK

PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2007 12:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's a very interesting project syrtismajor, I'll be watching with interest. I'm a big fan of making things without having the proper tools or facilities... it makes it more fun, and very satisfying when any success comes along!
I'm glad to hear that your partners OK!
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tmuir


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Joined: 01 Aug 2006
Posts: 14054
Location: Western Australia

PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2007 12:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thats a big task you have set yourself, looking forward to your posts.
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A nice example of an Australian made Scorpion Donkey Engine
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SillyBilly


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2007 4:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool. I guessing your making a new chimney then? Also are you planning on sending the exhaust to the chimney? There are some photo's of a lubricator on a TE1a on here: http://petes-mechanical-toys.photos.gb.com/p27677594.html
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Graham-Jilly


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Joined: 04 Mar 2007
Posts: 4211
Location: Brisbane Qld Australia

PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2007 7:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great project there syrtismajor will be eagely waiting future post and updates
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Mamodman123


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Joined: 19 Jul 2006
Posts: 31293
Location: Midlands, UK

PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2007 7:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ITs a plan will it work?
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Wallace


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Joined: 19 Jul 2006
Posts: 11182
Location: New South Wales, Australia

PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2007 10:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice one, going to be great to watch the progress
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wyvern


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Joined: 01 May 2007
Posts: 169
Location: South East England

PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2007 7:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The best of luck.

You could make use of standard size brass tubing for the cylinder and piston valve and use standard size rod for the piston, sealing with carbon string to keep things steam tight. Just a thought!

I am sure there have been piston valve engines made in the past with similar machinery to what you have so I am sure you'll succeed.
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IndianaRog


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Joined: 26 Dec 2006
Posts: 6162
Location: Indiana, USA

PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 2:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Syrtismajor,

Well done...you have a plan...that is half the battle...you have a Dremel...what more does a guy need!!!

Seriously, a fascinating project we will eagerly await updates on and the final unveiling. I know it will work and work well...all you gotta do now is deliver!!!

cheers,
Rog
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syrtismajor


Junior Member


Joined: 23 Apr 2007
Posts: 385
Location: Salisbury

PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2007 10:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just an update for you patient lot:
I'm still awaiting the loan of a powerful drill (I forgot to pick it up )
In the mean time I'm experimenting with soldering. My question for the boards are:
What solder and flux would you recommend? A while back I was told that soft solder would do the job of soldering pipes but am unsure of what ones to go for (that and the people at B&Q were staggeringly unhelpful). I have a mini blowtork that happily melted the existing solder on the TE1a so I assume that will be up to the job.

So far I have drilled a hole through the boiler, decided to use brass piping for the cylinder rather than a hone out brass block and further experiments in using a dremel and a vice to produce a lathe have been rather successful!
Progress is slow, but when things get going, lots will happen quickly,, I promise!
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Mamodman123


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Joined: 19 Jul 2006
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Location: Midlands, UK

PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2007 10:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

syrtismajor wrote:
Just an update for you patient lot:
I'm still awaiting the loan of a powerful drill (I forgot to pick it up )
In the mean time I'm experimenting with soldering. My question for the boards are:
What solder and flux would you recommend? A while back I was told that soft solder would do the job of soldering pipes but am unsure of what ones to go for (that and the people at B&Q were staggeringly unhelpful). I have a mini blowtork that happily melted the existing solder on the TE1a so I assume that will be up to the job.

So far I have drilled a hole through the boiler, decided to use brass piping for the cylinder rather than a hone out brass block and further experiments in using a dremel and a vice to produce a lathe have been rather successful!
Progress is slow, but when things get going, lots will happen quickly,, I promise!


Normal plumbers lead based solder will do the job fine you just look at the contents of the solder on the side of the reel. Should find it ok!. B&Q isn't always that great... I asked for copper rivets and they looked at me like i had three heads .

Your blowtorch should be fine, depends on how thick the solder is that you get. Try and get some thin solder for pipework. Flux should be easy enough to find. You shouldn't need a great deal of the stuff for small jobs like pipework . If the solder isn't running, or melting then you know it's not providing enough heat to do the job
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syrtismajor


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Joined: 23 Apr 2007
Posts: 385
Location: Salisbury

PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2007 10:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mamodman123 wrote:
Normal plumbers lead based solder will do the job fine you just look at the contents of the solder on the side of the reel. Should find it ok!. B&Q isn't always that great... I asked for copper rivets and they looked at me like i had three heads .

Your blowtorch should be fine, depends on how thick the solder is that you get. Try and get some thin solder for pipework. Flux should be easy enough to find. You shouldn't need a great deal of the stuff for small jobs like pipework . If the solder isn't running, or melting then you know it's not providing enough heat to do the job


Thought as much! Cheers for the advice, hopefully I'll have something to show for it soon. Is rather frustrating as I know what I want and how to acheive it, it's just the little bits in between that are holding me up!
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Mamodman123


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2007 10:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

syrtismajor wrote:
Mamodman123 wrote:
Normal plumbers lead based solder will do the job fine you just look at the contents of the solder on the side of the reel. Should find it ok!. B&Q isn't always that great... I asked for copper rivets and they looked at me like i had three heads .

Your blowtorch should be fine, depends on how thick the solder is that you get. Try and get some thin solder for pipework. Flux should be easy enough to find. You shouldn't need a great deal of the stuff for small jobs like pipework . If the solder isn't running, or melting then you know it's not providing enough heat to do the job


Thought as much! Cheers for the advice, hopefully I'll have something to show for it soon. Is rather frustrating as I know what I want and how to acheive it, it's just the little bits in between that are holding me up!


I guess it's better to take your time though!

Really really looking forward to seeing this little project progress will be brilliant when finished!


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Wallace


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2007 7:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

syrtismajor this is the solder I use. It's french or spanish, so if they sell it in OZ then they should sell it in the UK.
As you can see it's for car radiators, and I only have a small blowtorch, and it does the job





As MM said, lead based solder. But don't get stuff for electronics, and just use anything that is a regular flux paste.
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syrtismajor


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Joined: 23 Apr 2007
Posts: 385
Location: Salisbury

PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2007 7:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've drilled the cylinder block!


Not much of an update I know, bit I'm just rather chuffed than it 'seems' to have worked on a first try. Isn't perectly air (steam) tight, but hoping a seal of some sort can be used. Speaking of which. . .

What is this 'Carbon String' I keep hearing about? What is it, how much is it? And where can I get some
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