The Unofficial Mamod and Other Steam Forum

toxx · Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 1:19 pm Post subject: Restoration Wilesco D16

Hello, lads! The resto of my D16 is well under way. I bought some parts directly from Wilesco, since some of the originals were beyond salvation. Also a new set of washers. I'd like to get her stack smoking, and have already drilled a hole in the baseplate to receive the plastic hose I will connect with the spout, where steam would spew into a little plastic dish. Here's my question, friends: Is it enough to just lead the hose into the chimney stack? Or must I install an 'evaporator'? If so, what the flying Schnitzel is it? I found a nice video on youtube by a lad who had done just the exact to his D10 and mentions an evaporator. Tried to ask him there, but it didn't work. Seems my provider doesn't want me to post on youtube; some kind of security thing.
Thanks for your help, friends! I'll post some pix here as soon as I get Lady D16 up and chuffing says
Your old Tom

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... keine Wunder sind vollbracht.
No miracles ... yet.

Mister Occlusion · Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 1:33 pm Post subject:

Don't know anything about evaporators, but I do know about Wilesco chimneys.

My D22 has the little catch pail for condensate under the exhaust line, which vents under the chimney, but I have found it to be insufficient to deal with the water and oil that issues from the pipe. I tend to get a mucky mess leaking all over the place with that setup, so for now I'm routing all exhaust to an external jar. I would suggest you have something in there to catch the condensate, if nothing else.
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IndianaRog · Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 1:55 pm Post subject:

Tom, I recently experimented a bit and modified a Jensen 25 electrically heated engine to run instead on meths...at the same time I routed an exhaust pipe from the engine's exhaust down and under the wood base, then up inside the faux chimney Jensen supplies to allow for natural exhausting from the chimney.

The key to making my chimney exhaust properly (vs. leak oily water out the base) are the following mods:

1) I ran a short (maybe 8 inch) piece of 1/2" copper water pipe from the base right up the rim of the chimney top (cutting a hole in the chimney stub for this to fit thru). This piece of copper tubing was solder capped at the bottom and set flush in the wood and sealed with silicone near the top where it met the faux chimney...this sealing kept leakage from dripping back down inside the faux chimney and out the base.

2) I extended a 4 inch piece of straight brass tubing inside the copper up from the base, connected to the incoming steam...so the steam actually exited about 4 inches up from the bottom creating a well of sorts at the bottom of the copper pipe for any condensed water to collect in.

3) Lastly I drilled and soldered a short bit of brass tube near the bottom of the stack INTO the copper tube (well)...to allow drainage of the collected condensate out the bottom of the stack. Short stub of that tubing sticks out the bottom of the stack housing and I hook on a length of silicone tubing as a drain line run to a collection bottle under the table.

You could skip step 3 if you are prepared to turn engine upside down periodically to drain the condensate that has collected in the bottom part of the copper tube, but I preferred to let it be routed away continously.

Result is very effective...check http://www.indianarog.com/jensensteamengines.htm#113902892 for pics and video.

cheers,
Rog[/url]
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Mister Occlusion · Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 2:17 pm Post subject:

I was hoping you would come in here and detail your conversion, Mr IR

I was thinking of doing similar with the D22 after seeing what you had done. I hadn't guessed about the full height pipe within the stack and the sealant, but that certainly makes sense in retrospect.

I wonder how well it would work if I was to cut off the pipe at the top of the firebox, or thereabouts, seal it, and just accept that it's going to leak a little about the base of the chimney? It would only be water, rather than oil-laden filth. I still need to store my engines in their boxes, having no shelf space, so for me a large permanent stack liner would, unfortunately, not work.

I can't tell on your pictures or not, but how did you connect your new piping to your existing engine exhaust? I'm just wondering how you oil the thing.
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IndianaRog · Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 3:04 pm Post subject:

mc_mc · Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 3:11 pm Post subject:

Hovering over the running engine holding an oil can is all part of the fun!

tmuir · Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 3:36 pm Post subject:

If you are worried about oily condensate build an oil trap in the steam line.

Its quiet simple
Get about a 1 inch diameter pipe and cut about a two inch length of it.

Solder a sheet of copper to the bottom. Now cut a sheet of copper that will fit inside the pipe and about 2/3 the height, solder this in place. Drill a hole on either side of the 1 inch pipe about half way up on either side of this baffle to fit the steam in out out pipe and finally solder a cap on the pipe with a nut and bolt in it for the drain.

The theory is the steam and oil go into the trap and hit the baffle inside it and the heavy oil falls to the bottom whilest the steam rises over the baffle and exits out the other pipe. This is used a lot on marine steam engines to stop them polluting the lake.

If anyone is interested I will put a picture up which will explain it better.
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IndianaRog · Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 3:45 pm Post subject:

Tony, I for one would appreciate a picture/drawing of what you describe...might make for a cleaner benchtop to trap the oil vs. having it spitting everywhere.
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Mister Occlusion · Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 4:12 pm Post subject:

I'd like to see that too. I wonder if a moisture trap, of the sort used on air compressors, would work. You can get quite small ones for air brush use. It sounds like the same sort of thing.

I over oil, I admit it. I've gone through just over 2 of those little squirt bottles in the last couple months. I gasped in shock to myself when someone told me they oil their Wilesco roller every second firing... I have streaks of oil flung from my crankshafts because I keep them well oiled..etc.. It's an obsession thing... And it *is* kinda fun (and smells nice).

I think the problem with Wilesco's setup, and I've noticed this on the D455, is that the exhaust line is too close to the cup. When you run full throttle and there is any amount of water/mess in that cup it the steam jet starts to splatter it around. Considering the D22 should have something close to twice the flow coming from that exhaust pipe, it must produce a particularly strong jet.

Their one-size-fits-all solution to condensate handling appears to be ill conceived in that regard.

I must admit to mentally conceiving installing a nice displacement style lubricator on the vertical line above the engine on my Jensen 25 (which I have yet to receive

).
There are always a few on ebay, but I've a feeling they are much too large.
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Gingerly prodding the envelope since 2007.

toxx · Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 4:16 pm Post subject:

H'llo tmuir! Yes, please do! And thanks to all of you for your advice!

I'll post pix of lady D16 soon.
Cheers, mates!
Says Tom
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Says Tom

... keine Wunder sind vollbracht.
No miracles ... yet.

tmuir · Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 4:22 pm Post subject:

Here you go then Rog.
A picture to accompany my words above.

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A nice example of an Australian made Scorpion Donkey Engine

Griffin · Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 4:29 pm Post subject:

toxx · Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 6:39 pm Post subject:

Thanks, tmuir! I'll try to make one of those for lady D16 ...
Kind ´greetz says
Tom

_________________
Says Tom

... keine Wunder sind vollbracht.
No miracles ... yet.

rangerssteamtoys · Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 7:08 pm Post subject:

I did a similar thing on my exhaust for my wilesco D-10. Either Rog thought it up from the blue or he copied me, because I did mine first. I ran a piece of 1/2" copper tubing up the chimney and then drilled a hole in the top I fitted a piece of rubber hose to it and ran the hose to my exhaust. I made the hose on the pipe at an upward angle so it shoots any water or oil on the pipe and then travels to the bottom. And it makes a nice little ploom of steam comming out of the exhust. To empty it I just either suck it up with a syringe or syphon it out. It works for me and I beleive it is much better that wilesco new tray thing.
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Mister Occlusion · Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 7:26 pm Post subject: