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Around 1906 Bing 14077/0 "Brilliant"
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nuvolari


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2017 12:16 pm    Post subject: Around 1906 Bing 14077/0 "Brilliant" Reply with quote

Today a beautiful machine arrive.
It's described in the 1906 Bing catalog as a 14077/0 "Brilliant"


When I bought this machine, I was the most afraid of that particular type of water gauge.
It's from the same era as the two other 1906 Bings I restored lately.
http://modelsteam.myfreeforum.org/about93418.html

But when that machine arrived today, although there was no water gauge glass anymore, It seems that someone had the same idea as I did In the past.
When I unsecured the water gauge cover plate there where two round brass plates covering the holes.
Fortunately, the one who did this, used his brains and did not solder the holes to seal them, instead he used some kind of sealing past.
Under neath that I found two nice drilled holes.




For the rest the machine is in pretty good state, only the chimney, oil lid, Bing logo and burner is missing.
The usual missing parts.
Fortunately I had a oil lid in my spare part box.
Chimney probably I will have to make a new one again.
And burner will be rented from an other machine.
The missing Bing logo is a bigger problem.
I someone can help me, just PM me
But overall this 100 Years + guy is still in very good condition and just needs a soft clean up.





This restoration project still has to wait a while, as I first must finish the 1930's Bing restorations.

Cheers,
Danny
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Celsius 100


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2017 2:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

At least the major components are not missing and there were no nasty surprises associated with the missing sight glass. I feel sure it will look good once you have restored it, Danny.
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andycrazy


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2017 1:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is a great project.  It will look superb when you have cleaned up up and replaced the sight glass.  At least you have all the major parts and they look to be in decent condition.  A great addition to your collection.
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Dr. Rog


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2017 5:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


impressive condition generally, well done on getting that one.

Was the logo the cast type rather than a decal. If so it would be possible to get a mould in silicon off an original one.  
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nuvolari


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2017 9:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dr. Rog wrote:

impressive condition generally, well done on getting that one.

Was the logo the cast type rather than a decal. If so it would be possible to get a mould in silicon off an original one.  


Good question, it was the cast type logo.
The other two 1906 Bings I have, have the matching logo.
I was planing to make a cast of them, like I recently did with the Ernst Plank logo.
http://modelsteam.myfreeforum.org/about86971.html
If I not found an original, that is.

Cheers,
Danny
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lyrics Einsturzende Neubauten song "Nnnaaamm"
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2017 11:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sure's "Brilliant"  
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2017 11:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Once it has been restored it will again be Brilliant.
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nuvolari


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2017 1:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK guys thank you very much for the comments

Earlier this week I started to take the machine completely apart.
I did this to get as much dirt and old oils off it as much as possible.
Still have some nickel to clean as these old oils turned into a layer of tarmac.

Today I spend most time in casting a new self-made Bing logo.
Fortunately I have a few other Bing's with a similar relief logo.

These logo's are most of the time attached with very thin clips that brake very easy, and we won't allow that to happen.

So the solution is to take some plasticine (children's clay).
Knead it until it gets very soft, and that push it against the original logo.
Than take it very careful off, and you have a delicate negative.

In that negative you poor some resin and let it set.
Than you have a resin positive again.
This will be your master for the future, and you can use it over and over again.

Next step is to prepare your oil-sand molds and push your resin master into the oil-sand.
It should look like this:


This is just one side of the mold you see, the other side is just flat.
The two sides are screw together, and the hot liquid metal is pored in from above.

The liquid metal is a mix white metal for tin soldiers, silver solder and brass solder, brought to a heat that all metals mix well together.

And when cleaned up, and taken the mold seams away, this is the result:


I have to asmid that I also dipped it into blueing solution to age it, because it come out in shiny white metal, and that's to shiny for my taste

I think the best way to attache it to the boiler will be two component "JB cold weld".
Other ideas are welcome?

That's all so far....

Cheers,
Danny
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lyrics Einsturzende Neubauten song "Nnnaaamm"
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2017 2:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow That came out great if you feel like making more badges I would be after a few :p
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nuvolari


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2017 3:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Freespawn wrote:
Wow That came out great if you feel like making more badges I would be after a few :p

What are you looking for Dan?
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lyrics Einsturzende Neubauten song "Nnnaaamm"
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2017 3:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That Bing logo is missing off of 2 of my engines and I have a ernist plank missing its badge too I do have more missing but can't remember what ones they are :p
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2017 12:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like your techniques ver much, I would love to see a video of your Casting process
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2017 12:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The shield looks perfect in its aged state
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nuvolari


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2017 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maxwell wrote:
Hi Danny, why did you cast the EP logo while all originals are stamped sheet metal?

A quote from: http://modelsteam.myfreeforum.org/about86971.html

Maxwell wrote:
I like your techniques ver much, I would love to see a video of your Casting process


@Maxwell,
Yes, all these relief logo's where stamped.
But if you do a restoration, you want the machine to look as original and good looking as you can, but also keep in mind it's aged charm.
Although a logo has no function, to me and I think to most of us, the logo is like the cherry on the cake.
Now you can do two things.
Keep a lookout for an original, that gives you a one in a million chance, if you ever find one, and you turn grey without noticing it, and that already happened so...
Or you can make a replica.
A replica like the original it takes a real expensive mold and a big press, but nor do I have the money or the machine to do this.
The alternative is what I do, cast one.
Casting is a relative cheap method.
All you need is this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-LB-PETR...item4ae66d9edd:g:NxkAAOSw7aBVCG74
and this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Casting-F...item3ad8ca4010:g:GoQAAOSwEzxYZbDe
I just gave these at random, search on the net, normally you can buy complete sets at a better price.

But I also immediately going to say that you can't use these logo's everywhere.
Places that get to hot, like fireboxes, casted logo's will just melt away, keep that always in mind.

As for making a video, sorry I can't do this.
The reason is that I work alone, and when I'm casting I need both hands.
And as you work with hot molten metals, you have to have full focus on that, it's to dangerous to hold a camera.

But I found these tutorials on youtube that show the proses.



I hope this helps...

Cheers,
Danny
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"Das lied schläft in der Maschine"
(the song sleeps in the machine)
lyrics Einsturzende Neubauten song "Nnnaaamm"
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Maxwell


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2017 2:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nuvolari wrote:
Maxwell wrote:
Hi Danny, why did you cast the EP logo while all originals are stamped sheet metal?

A quote from: http://modelsteam.myfreeforum.org/about86971.html

Maxwell wrote:
I like your techniques ver much, I would love to see a video of your Casting process


@Maxwell,
Yes, all these relief logo's where stamped.
But if you do a restoration, you want the machine to look as original and good looking as you can, but also keep in mind it's aged charm.
Although a logo has no function, to me and I think to most of us, the logo is like the cherry on the cake.
Now you can do two things.
Keep a lookout for an original, that gives you a one in a million chance, if you ever find one, and you turn grey without noticing it, and that already happened so...
Or you can make a replica.
A replica like the original it takes a real expensive mold and a big press, but nor do I have the money or the machine to do this.
The alternative is what I do, cast one.
Casting is a relative cheap method.
All you need is this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-LB-PETR...item4ae66d9edd:g:NxkAAOSw7aBVCG74
and this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Casting-F...item3ad8ca4010:g:GoQAAOSwEzxYZbDe
I just gave these at random, search on the net, normally you can buy complete sets at a better price.

But I also immediately going to say that you can't use these logo's everywhere.
Places that get to hot, like fireboxes, casted logo's will just melt away, keep that always in mind.

As for making a video, sorry I can't do this.
The reason is that I work alone, and when I'm casting I need both hands.
And as you work with hot molten metals, you have to have full focus on that, it's to dangerous to hold a camera.

But I found these tutorials on youtube that show the proses.



I hope this helps...

Cheers,
Danny


Thanks Danny for the explanation and details, very much appreciated.
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