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Scratchbuilt Mamod Esque Loco using PPS Cylinders
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alan2525


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Joined: 02 Feb 2008
Posts: 745
Location: Essex, UK

PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2008 7:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I turned the little chimney part on top and made the handles for the lamps today. Chucked a bit of 5/16 Brass in the 4 jaw and turned it down, then used a parting tool to turn down the little step on the chimney.

They are looking very nice too even if I say so myself! The handle is made from 0.3 x 1.5mm K&S brass flat so pretty small!

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steamyjim


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2008 8:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

They look brilliant!
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alan2525


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Location: Essex, UK

PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 7:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I turned up the chimney for the loco today, I still need to do the saddle part where it mounts onto the smokebox. Turned from a piece of 3/4" brass on my little Taig Lathe.

I cut an M8 thread on the end 12mm of the chimney so I can thread it into place. I might silver solder the assembly in place too but it should make it nice and rigid whilst soldering.


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steamyjim


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 7:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I WANT I WANT I WANT I WANT I WANT I WANT I WANT I WANT!!!!!!!!!

Seriosly mate she's a beauty!
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alan2525


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 7:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks!

Train  Thumbs up!
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steamyjim


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 7:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you making your own boiler?
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alan2525


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 7:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

steamyjim wrote:
Are you making your own boiler?


Yes - I think thats probably the next job. I've got a piece of 38mm diameter copper tube. I'll have to turn some formers so I can flange the ends out of copper sheet. I need to work out the positions for the various steam fittings too.

Ideally I'll fit regulator, safety valve, enots filler, whistle and sight glass. I also wanted to look into fitting some kind of valve for filling the boiler using the vacuum created when the steam condenses in there after a run.

Lots of stuff for a little boiler!
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steamyjim


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 7:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why not machine the end caps?
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alan2525


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 8:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

steamyjim wrote:
Why not machine the end caps?


They could be turned, but it's fun flanging the ends - Quite rewarding too!

On mamod sized boilers the ends dont really need to be flanged as the pressures are quite low, it just helps to locate the ends and simplifies the job of soldering them up.
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DLR


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Joined: 13 Nov 2007
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Location: Blyth

PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 8:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A very nice looking loco Alan. see this link for the vacume idea

http://www.sidestreetbannerworks.com/locos/loco77.html
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steamyjim


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

alan2525 wrote:
steamyjim wrote:
Why not machine the end caps?


They could be turned, but it's fun flanging the ends - Quite rewarding too!

On mamod sized boilers the ends dont really need to be flanged as the pressures are quite low, it just helps to locate the ends and simplifies the job of soldering them up.


Aye, fair enough
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alan2525


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 8:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DLR wrote:
A very nice looking loco Alan. see this link for the vacume idea

http://www.sidestreetbannerworks.com/locos/loco77.html


That is a nice solution. Funny you posted that link - I really like those little Kerr Stuart Wren locos. I just missed out on buying one  of the very same Wrightscale models on Ebay last week! I've also bought a copy of the "Ready for Delivery"catalogue pictured on that site too.

It'd be nice to have another little hand wheel inside the cab. Adds to the things to do whilst you're waiting for another steam up too.

I think the valve would have to be at the same height as the normal working water level - so when the fire goes out, the steam condensates and the resulting vacuum fills the boiler with water. The valve would then be left open as the loco raises steam, which would push the excess water back into the water tank and the accompanying hiss would inform you to close the valve again.

It seems like a neat solution. although would need a little water tank in a tender or under a dummy coal load in an open wagon.

For my next build I'd like to have proper water tight sidetanks and an internal fired boiler, or atleast a centrally fired pot boiler.
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Nick


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 4:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is looking amazing!
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alan2525


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 9:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I made some formers for flanging the boiler - just a bit of of steel bar turned to size and a radius filed on the edge. The only thing I could only find a big old chunk or 45mm bar, too short to power hacksaw the end of it so spent a little time facing it down so it was a short bit.

Was good fun though, big long swirls of blued swarf piling up like pan scourers and cutting oil. I later realised I'd forgot to allow for the wall thickness of the copper and the 38mm was the outside diameter. I later found an inch long piece of 32mm bar - just the right size!

It's fun making chips though!
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pauly


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Joined: 11 Apr 2008
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Location: middlesbrough

PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 9:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

WOW she looks great  

and I love those lamps
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