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Stitch launches into a boat
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Stitch


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Joined: 03 May 2007
Posts: 872
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 1:52 am    Post subject: Stitch launches into a boat Reply with quote

I am building a boat, an activity that never ceases to amaze me. A year ago I was was never going to collect marine engines and 3 months ago I was never going to make a boat!

However, once I started collecting SEL engines, I just needed the marine engine to complete the set, and the same for the David Auld collection ...  You all know how it is ....      Also, all the efforts at boat building that I have seen from forum members have been too tempting  

The man I bought the first David Auld marine engine off kindly lent me a plans for the Basil Harley designed launch, 'Mabel".

Here are my efforts to date.

Bulking up!
Mrs is out of town and I have taken over the dining room. Wooden pegs make great clamps!

I can't decide whether or not to use the SEL or the David Auld engine


Side on!
Sides cut out and glued on. Stern filled in, bottom cut away. Now ready for sealing and a good sand to get her into shape. The brown marks on the side are filler. It pays to keep the finger nails short when using balsa. I ended up inadvertently gouging the sides.





Now ready for the deck, cabin and engine fittings etc. I have decided to go with the Auld. The boiler is too small for the SEL and it doesn't run too well. The Auld is perhaps too powerful.



Can anyone help with the following question? The Auld engine is rather powerful and I need to find a way of mounting it to the bottom of the boat. I was going to epoxy rubber engine mounts to the aluminum base plate on the bottom of the boat, but the smallest I can find are 12mm high - too high I think.

cheers
Shaun  
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johnreid


Steam Supreme Being


Joined: 06 Sep 2007
Posts: 10356
Location: Friendship Indiana, USA

PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 2:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not much help here, but it sure looks like you are making great progress. Scratch build too! Impressive
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Les


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Joined: 03 Nov 2007
Posts: 7638
Location: Bournemouth, Dorset.

PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 3:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You are doing a grand job there, as for the rubber mounts being too high, can't you cut them down to make them smaller??
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mogogear


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Joined: 01 Feb 2008
Posts: 946
Location: Portland Oregon

PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 4:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Too new at this to be any help... I have lost of ideas about mounting power plants... but they have not been fleshed out by those in the know...

BTW- excellent job by a "landlubber"
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Mo

This week I are Bishop Lord Mo, the Antique of Bismorton Shropcake
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tmuir


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Joined: 01 Aug 2006
Posts: 13779
Location: Western Australia

PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 8:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking good so far.
Any chance of a photo of the plan so we can get any idea of what the finished boat will look like?

Sorry I can't help with the engine mounts. I know zero about boats but I'm starting to think I may have to build one eventually.
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A nice example of an Australian made Scorpion Donkey Engine
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bessytractor


Steam Legend!!


Joined: 31 Dec 2006
Posts: 2406
Location: Chertsey, Surrey

PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

if the boat hull wasn't balsa and was something sturdier I would advocate screwing the base to the hull.  Unfortunately with balsa thats a no-no.

Great looking hull though.
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Wallace


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Joined: 19 Jul 2006
Posts: 11028
Location: New South Wales, Australia

PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 9:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is looking great so far Shaun  

Nice work.
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MooseMan


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Joined: 13 Aug 2006
Posts: 4142
Location: Cardiff

PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 10:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very clean work mate, and I love the "Mabel" hull.....

I'd recommend  you actually drill thorugh the base of the boat, secure the engine with bolts that way and just insert a couple of washers to keep things watertight - that seems pretty much the standard way or working for this kind of flat-bottomed hull. As your hull is balsa, I would get some thin birch ply and glue that in where you will mount the engine, both inside and underneath the hull, just so you dont pull the bolts through, and also to reinforce things a bit. You're going to want to be able to remove the engine with ease, as the inside of the hull will get dirty with oil and condensate very quickly - pushing a boat round is hard work for an engine as it is constantly under load.

I've heard of lots of different methods for waterproofing the hull, but I think the general consensus is that proofing the outside with sanding sealer is essential. I've just tried something else for the engine bay of my big boat - I used a floorboard varnish that contains teflon, and it's absolutely brilliant - wipes clean in an instant, it's essentially non-stick.
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bessytractor


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Joined: 31 Dec 2006
Posts: 2406
Location: Chertsey, Surrey

PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 10:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Moose has had the best idea so far.  And as he says, sand seal it, you cannot go wrong with that.  Maybe spray it with car primer if your going to spray paint it in order to make it more waterproof.
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Stitch


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Joined: 03 May 2007
Posts: 872
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 11:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks all for the replies and the advice.

I forgot to mention that it was a bit of challenge in building the hull to plan. The piece of balsa for the hull was supposed to be 1/2 x 4 x 48 in inches (that was what it was labeled). When I got it home, I found that it was cut to metric scale. Not a big deal, but it meant all the bulkheads had to be recut    

Tony. The plan is huge, but I have ordered an original of the 1979 issue of Model Boats and will put a pic from that when it arrives.

Moose. I think you are right and this is the approach I will take. I was hoping to avoid drilling holes in the base, but this reluctance was a bit silly. I have plenty of birch ply and will follow your suggestions. The varnish with teflon sounds like a great idea  What was the brand name of the product you used?

Bessy: I agree mate and she will have a liberal amount of sanding sealer applied.  
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MooseMan


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Joined: 13 Aug 2006
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Location: Cardiff

PostPosted: Mon May 12, 2008 7:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shaun, the varnish I used is "Sadolin Extra Durable Floor Varnish". It comes in a lot of shades. I can always post you a little pot (goes a long way) if you can't find any.
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oldstuff


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Joined: 31 Oct 2006
Posts: 2530
Location: Detroit, Michigan, U.S.A.

PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2008 3:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stitch, what a fine project! Looks great so far. Keep the updates coming!
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Stitch


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Joined: 03 May 2007
Posts: 872
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2008 6:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

MooseMan wrote:
Shaun, the varnish I used is "Sadolin Extra Durable Floor Varnish". It comes in a lot of shades. I can always post you a little pot (goes a long way) if you can't find any.


Thanks, Moose. That is very generous of you      I will have a hunt around and see if it is available here and get back you.
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Graham-Jilly


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Joined: 04 Mar 2007
Posts: 4140
Location: Brisbane Qld Australia

PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2008 8:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thats looking great Shaun
a realy great job  
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rangerssteamtoys


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Joined: 17 Jul 2007
Posts: 2126
Location: Houston Texas, USA

PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2008 1:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good start. I hope to finish my midwest project this summer.
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