The Unofficial Mamod and Other Steam Forum

johnreid · Posted: Sun May 11, 2008 9:26 pm Post subject:

Seriously, there isnt a problem, I could replace it with something else for a small amount of money but do not know if it would improve it. The Asbestos is not dusting and as long as it is in good condition and is in a location where it isnt going to be inhaled, I really do not see any reason to dispose of it.
In fact, it is better where it is than stuck away in a landfill someplace.

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kusuchi · Posted: Sun May 11, 2008 11:00 pm Post subject:

Sorry to hear about the heating element, John.

This one doesn't seem to working out so well and it looked so promising at the beginning.
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johnreid · Posted: Sun May 11, 2008 11:29 pm Post subject:

Good fortune is often followed by a bit of the bad, but before the element went, I did get a bit of good news and ordered a new addition to be added to the Water Closet of Steam. My first Vertical no less! So, I might have to wait till June to order the heater, and in the mean time I will be on the lookout for a replacement boiler, if anyone knows of a CHEAP tube sightglass type boiler let me know ( is there such a thing?

)
I might hook the engine up to my 70 boiler just to see how it works. The plywood base on my 70 has a flaw that just keeps gnawing at me every time I see it, so I might fashion a new base for ir and test the non reversing 25 engine with that boiler.
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Nick · Posted: Mon May 12, 2008 4:02 am Post subject:

Since it's not a very rare engine John, strap a newer porthole boiler on there.

It would be much easier to monitor the water level.

You could probably find a complete engine off ebay to steal the boiler from and sell the parts on here.

Cedge · Posted: Mon May 12, 2008 4:18 am Post subject:

John
Something you might want to try before giving up on that boiler. I had pretty good luck with taking a new hollow screw and letting the nice sharp threads re-cut the ones that are stripped. I even cut a relief in one, similar to a thread tap, that I used until I found a real tap in the proper size.

Steve
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johnreid · Posted: Mon May 12, 2008 11:05 am Post subject:

By removing the guard I purchased enough thread to get that part to work. The oly reason I would replace the boiler is the corrosion but can live with it as is. I dont see that many Non Reversing 25s on the Bay of E so I dont want to fit it with a round sightglass. I see reversing 25s with the round sightglass, but since my reversing 25 is in such good condition I will not mess with it. I dont have a lot of money so instead of amassing a large quantity of engines I am trying to end up with a few that are in really good condition, not one that has been mucked up just to get it going.
For now the heater and Safety Valve are the main stumbling blocks.
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johnreid · Posted: Wed May 21, 2008 11:09 pm Post subject:

I ran the engine using the boiler on my Jensen 70 and this thing runs like a scalded dog, I think it has higher RPMs than my reversing cast base 25. I think this one is worthy of getting a new heater for.
The Valve rod was in backwards, the notch was away from the cylinder so it took a while before I thought to check and then like I said it runs like a charm. Plus, that Flywheel is one of the heaviest I have come across.
A question for the Jensen experts, I notice that this one does not have a long enough crankshaft for one to mount a pulley on it. I notice that one some of the older Jensens that was the case, when did the lengthen the shaft to mount an external pulley?
I think that this is an actual non reversing 25 and not one that the Stephenson gear has been removed from. So I can also assume that it is from the late 1940s?
I am looking forward to getting it running on its own, a new heater will be ordered tomorrow, today must have been Doritas day off.
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johnreid · Posted: Tue May 27, 2008 11:56 pm Post subject:

Well, I got the new heater and installed every thing, filled it with water and listened as the water heated, the POP the hollow steam screw on the sightglass blew off, the glass tube, new, broke at that time too. I guess this one will need a boiler. I am really disappointed as it ran so well withe the boiler from my 70, but I have my heart set on a tube type sightglass for my non reversing 25. So far, with the parts and all, this is the most expensive one I have now and still isnt up to running condition.
Well, Jenny Wrens and SE3s have emptied the coffers so this one goes on the shelf for some day when I can find a boiler. Its pretty looking so I guess it is a display model.

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IndianaRog · Posted: Wed May 28, 2008 12:34 am Post subject:

John,

I have found a simple way to fix external sight glass Jensen boilers with stripped out boiler holes. I scribe around the sight glass block with a fine sharpie marker and rough that surface up with a Dremel, careful to stay within the scribe marks.

I then take a piece of brass plate, drill a hole and tap to the proper Jensen thread. I then measure and mark this plate using a sight glass block so that the newly cut hole lines up perfectly with the sight glass block. Lastly I cut the rectangle to match the sight glass block using a Dremel cutting wheel. Clean up the piece roughening the back side.

OFF the engine I tin the back side of the brass plate with solder, including the edges...flux it well and lay it on the exact spot where it will line up with the existing stripped out hole. Then I gingerly heat the brass plate in place with a torch til the tinned solder layer liquifies and bonds to the boiler face.

Voila

There is now a solid brass surface for the steam screw to "bite" and the sight glass block covers it perfectly if you were careful with tracing and cutting. Having tinned the edges of the brass plate, it blends in perfectly with the nickeled sight glass block for a virtually transparent repair.

Things will line up a bit better if BOTH holes are done this same way, but I have done a single one and gotten OK results. Gasket as you would normally do and you are in business.

Rog
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johnreid · Posted: Wed May 28, 2008 12:38 am Post subject:

I will be on the hunt for some brass plate ( how thick is too thick? and a tap ) This one has been a disappointment from the get go, but still shows so much potential.
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IndianaRog · Posted: Wed May 28, 2008 12:41 am Post subject:

John, see my PM.
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johnreid · Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 11:00 am Post subject:

Rogers repair seems to have worked like a charm, but once one problem is fixed, another shows up, this boiler leaks all around the endcap except for two small areas where Rogers repair actually sealed the endcap at their locations too. I had noticed that the nickel plating was gone around teh edge of the endcap and now wonder if the previous owner had not tried to remove the endcap in an attempt to repair the stripped sightglass.
I plan on trying to lay a bead of solder around the seam, but to be honest my expectations are low. I think this one is making up for all of the bargains I got in the past.
A replacement boiler will be high on my want list now.

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IndianaRog · Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 1:36 pm Post subject:

John, there is a paste form of solder I have seen at the hardware store. No personal experience with it, but perhaps it would lend itself to coating that seam and then hitting gingerly with a torch.

I know from trying to solder seams, they have to be very clean and well fluxed or you get perpetual gaps that keep forming.

Very frustrating indeed!
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johnreid · Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 1:41 pm Post subject:

I have been fighting it this morning while I wait for the Furnace people to show up and I think it is futile. Will research the paste though, where I used to work they used that for parts that were baked in a high temp oven to solder circuit boards.
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IndianaRog · Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 1:59 pm Post subject:

John, maybe if your home oven is in the temp range for melting the stuff, you could remove sight glasses, whistle, SV etc. and place the boiler upright in the oven after a liberal coat of solder paste around the seam...buff off excess if that melts. If it doesn't melt it is at least no worse for the wear.
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