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Sussex Steam Newcomen engine
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Sandman


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Joined: 19 Jul 2006
Posts: 13858


Location: Ayrshire Scotland

PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 10:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That looks a treat Roly.

If it goes as good as it looks, it will be a topper.

Can't wait for the next installment.
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Last edited by Sandman on Mon Nov 02, 2009 11:08 am; edited 1 time in total
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MooseMan


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Joined: 13 Aug 2006
Posts: 8535


Location: Cardiff, Wales

PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 11:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks fantastic, like some weird victorian scientific instrument! Once you get it running, replace the PVC tubes with some black rubber and it'll look even better!
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Roly Williams


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Joined: 02 Aug 2006
Posts: 5705


Location: Lambourn

PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

MooseMan wrote:
Looks fantastic, like some weird victorian scientific instrument! Once you get it running, replace the PVC tubes with some black rubber and it'll look even better!

The instructions recommend the use of the plastic tubing to make adjustments easier during setting up. Once I get it working, I might replace it with brass or copper, but that would be a bit too permanent at this stage!
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Keith S


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Joined: 28 Mar 2009
Posts: 888


Location: Yellowknife, Canada

PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 3:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you lit the fire yet, Roly?, or are you still getting things lined up?

It's amazing how complicated it is, considering how archaic the engine is.
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Caprice


Junior Member


Joined: 27 Jun 2009
Posts: 129


Location: Stockholm, Sweden

PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 4:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks very good!

Looking forward to see a video of this epic machine...

A nice "mine like" rock/stone, with a hole drilled in it would also look good instead of that Plexiglas bowl.
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metalhead100


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Joined: 27 Dec 2008
Posts: 1404


Location: Indiana USA

PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 10:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In pet shops they sell plastic rock looking bowls for reptiles!

Jim
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James


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Joined: 26 Jun 2006
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Location: Nr. Gainsborough, Lincolnshire, England.

PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 10:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bloody hell, how did I miss this thread?

What a marvellous story  

The end product looks bloody good aswell. Massive well done to Roly, and to David  

Very nice  
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Roly Williams


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Joined: 02 Aug 2006
Posts: 5705


Location: Lambourn

PostPosted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 7:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keith S wrote:
Have you lit the fire yet, Roly?, or are you still getting things lined up?

It's amazing how complicated it is, considering how archaic the engine is.

Yes, I have - without much success

I think some more adjustments are required but I didn't get very far before the pump piston parted company with the rod. It was glued on, as per the instructions, but that was, obviously, not strong enough, so I think I'll have to solder it. The problem is it's inside the enclosed cylinder which is glued together. I'll have to be carefull dismantling it without distorting it (there isn't much clearance and the tube wall is quite thin). I'm hoping a little heat will be enough to release one end or the other.
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mogogear


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Joined: 01 Feb 2008
Posts: 2540


Location: Portland Oregon

PostPosted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 7:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

James wrote:
Bloody hell, how did I miss this thread?

What a marvellous story  

The end product looks bloody good aswell. Massive well done to Roly, and to David  

Very nice  


I am with you James--I must have been in the deep end of the BOAT pool for TOO long...What a different engine! And nicely completed.

I agree with Roly so much on if instructions are poorly written or seemingly incomprehensible,  I will abandon them too soon-even if the answer to my problem buried inside.

Good on you for keeping the faith...I will now sit on my hands and wait for the vid!
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Roly Williams


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Joined: 02 Aug 2006
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Location: Lambourn

PostPosted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 8:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Time for an update on this, although there's not much to say. I fixed the pump and sorted the drip tray. (You might think that is of little importance but, believe me, it's required!)

I can't get it to work, though. I've tweeked everything I can think of. I think the main problem is the water valve. This is supposed to inject cold water into the cylinder at the top of each stroke but it appears leaking so badly that it's allowing a constant dribble of water into the cylinder (and everywhere else). The valve is a cylindrical shaped piece of brass with a cross hole drilled through it, a bit like the steam valve in the Cyldon semi-rotative engine. There appears to be too much clearance, probably because of over-enthusiastic de-burring after drilling the cross holes. I've tried dipping it in thick steam oil but that didn't work.

Any tips from existing owners would be appreciated.  
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Roly Williams

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steamyjim


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Joined: 27 Oct 2006
Posts: 7076


Location: England; Great Britain

PostPosted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 8:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Roly Williams wrote:
Time for an update on this, although there's not much to say. I fixed the pump and sorted the drip tray. (You might think that is of little importance but, believe me, it's required!)

I can't get it to work, though. I've tweeked everything I can think of. I think the main problem is the water valve. This is supposed to inject cold water into the cylinder at the top of each stroke but it appears leaking so badly that it's allowing a constant dribble of water into the cylinder (and everywhere else). The valve is a cylindrical shaped piece of brass with a cross hole drilled through it, a bit like the steam valve in the Cyldon semi-rotative engine. There appears to be too much clearance, probably because of over-enthusiastic de-burring after drilling the cross holes. I've tried dipping it in thick steam oil but that didn't work.

Any tips from existing owners would be appreciated.  


I think I have the same problem as you, does your piston move to the top of the stroke when steam is admitted?
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Roly Williams


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Joined: 02 Aug 2006
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Location: Lambourn

PostPosted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 8:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

steamyjim wrote:
Roly Williams wrote:
Time for an update on this, although there's not much to say. I fixed the pump and sorted the drip tray. (You might think that is of little importance but, believe me, it's required!)

I can't get it to work, though. I've tweeked everything I can think of. I think the main problem is the water valve. This is supposed to inject cold water into the cylinder at the top of each stroke but it appears leaking so badly that it's allowing a constant dribble of water into the cylinder (and everywhere else). The valve is a cylindrical shaped piece of brass with a cross hole drilled through it, a bit like the steam valve in the Cyldon semi-rotative engine. There appears to be too much clearance, probably because of over-enthusiastic de-burring after drilling the cross holes. I've tried dipping it in thick steam oil but that didn't work.

Any tips from existing owners would be appreciated.  


I think I have the same problem as you, does your piston move to the top of the stroke when steam is admitted?

It does, but the steam pressure doesn't build up enough to operate the buoy cylinder. when I manually trigger the water valve, the main piston just jerks a bit and doesn't pull down.
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Roly Williams

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steamyjim


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Joined: 27 Oct 2006
Posts: 7076


Location: England; Great Britain

PostPosted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 9:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Roly Williams wrote:
steamyjim wrote:
Roly Williams wrote:
Time for an update on this, although there's not much to say. I fixed the pump and sorted the drip tray. (You might think that is of little importance but, believe me, it's required!)

I can't get it to work, though. I've tweeked everything I can think of. I think the main problem is the water valve. This is supposed to inject cold water into the cylinder at the top of each stroke but it appears leaking so badly that it's allowing a constant dribble of water into the cylinder (and everywhere else). The valve is a cylindrical shaped piece of brass with a cross hole drilled through it, a bit like the steam valve in the Cyldon semi-rotative engine. There appears to be too much clearance, probably because of over-enthusiastic de-burring after drilling the cross holes. I've tried dipping it in thick steam oil but that didn't work.

Any tips from existing owners would be appreciated.  


I think I have the same problem as you, does your piston move to the top of the stroke when steam is admitted?

It does, but the steam pressure doesn't build up enough to operate the buoy cylinder. when I manually trigger the water valve, the main piston just jerks a bit and doesn't pull down.


Exactly the same problem as me
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Roly Williams


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Location: Lambourn

PostPosted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 9:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, I take it, you've never found a solution?
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Roly Williams

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steamyjim


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Joined: 27 Oct 2006
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Location: England; Great Britain

PostPosted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 11:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Roly Williams wrote:
So, I take it, you've never found a solution?


Nope, I've never bothered to be honest. I'm wondering if a replacement valve would do the trick, even just to test the theory that the water valve is leaking...
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