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Steve_S
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Joined: 26 Aug 2006 Posts: 3191 Location: Leeds UK
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Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2007 10:31 pm Post subject: |
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| Great stuff Odilon, it looks superb. It's interesting about the Hamerite paint... I'd been wondering whether to try it on my E135 firebox which has been badly repainted at some point in it's history. I'll definitely give it a go now! |
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SPOKESMAN
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Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2007 10:32 pm Post subject: |
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| Predicatable, solid SE3 performance - always a good runner! |
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MooseMan
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Joined: 13 Aug 2006 Posts: 4142 Location: Cardiff
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Posted: Wed Mar 21, 2007 8:08 am Post subject: |
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| Steve_S wrote: | | Great stuff Odilon, it looks superb. It's interesting about the Hamerite paint... I'd been wondering whether to try it on my E135 firebox which has been badly repainted at some point in it's history. I'll definitely give it a go now! |
Might as well Steve....if it doesn't work it's relatively easy to remove, and it has the added benefit of curing and preventing rust.
Just for sake of completeness, what I did on this firebox:
-Stripped down to bare metal, Hammerite doesn't like sitting on paint remnants.
-Keyed the bare metal with fine wet&dry, then rubbed down with white spirit.
-Built the paint up in many fine layers (about 8 ) at 15 minute intervals.
-Let it dry for 24 hours
-Cured in a cool oven for about 3 hours.
Laborious, but Ilike the finish  _________________ Sight to the blind
Sensation to the numb
Courage to the cowardly
Conversation to the dumb |
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Stilldrillin
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Joined: 06 Feb 2007 Posts: 1299 Location: Staveley, Derbyshire. UK
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Posted: Wed Mar 21, 2007 8:32 am Post subject: |
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Wonderfull finish!
Did you use Hammerite... or was it Smoothrite?
Brush or spray?
Hope my next project looks as good! _________________ David.
All those days which have come and gone......
I didn`t know that was life! |
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MooseMan
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Joined: 13 Aug 2006 Posts: 4142 Location: Cardiff
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Posted: Wed Mar 21, 2007 9:53 am Post subject: |
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| Stilldrillin wrote: | Wonderfull finish!
Did you use Hammerite... or was it Smoothrite?
Brush or spray?
Hope my next project looks as good! |
Thanks mate!
Smooth finish hammerite, spray.  _________________ Sight to the blind
Sensation to the numb
Courage to the cowardly
Conversation to the dumb |
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Mamodman123
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Joined: 19 Jul 2006 Posts: 31056 Location: Midlands, UK
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Posted: Wed Mar 21, 2007 12:16 pm Post subject: |
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Shall be giving that a go Mooseman  _________________ Solid Fuel tablets explode
You could get a nice flatbase for that
www.mamodsteam.tk
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Stilldrillin
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Joined: 06 Feb 2007 Posts: 1299 Location: Staveley, Derbyshire. UK
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Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2007 7:31 am Post subject: |
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| MooseMan wrote: | | Stilldrillin wrote: | Wonderfull finish!
Did you use Hammerite... or was it Smoothrite?
Brush or spray?
Hope my next project looks as good! |
Thanks mate!
Smooth finish hammerite, spray.  |
Thanks for info.
I used to use the original black brushing Smoothrite in an earlier life, on old motorcycle parts. It gave a lovely hard wearing "old gloss" finish.
Never thought to try it on hot components!
Thanks again.  _________________ David.
All those days which have come and gone......
I didn`t know that was life! |
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Cedge
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Joined: 29 Sep 2006 Posts: 561 Location: Swamp Whoohaw, USA
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Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 4:41 pm Post subject: |
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Moose
Something struck me that might be an answer to the decals on the fireboxes. Assuming the decals are the typical thin membrane style which are applied using water, there might be a trick worth trying.
High detail model makers use a chemical solution called "Decal fixer" that dessolves the membrane and depsoits the ink directly on the surface where it is affixed. This eliminates the tenting effect the membrane suffers when it encounters details like rivets and panel lines on a model. The decal ink practically becomes a part of the paint surface.
By eliminating the heat sensitive membrane, might not some of the discoloration problem tend to go away too?
Also noted somewhere, a member lamenting the failure of an old decal while trying to apply it. There is also a decal restoring soultion which is fantastic. It revitalizes and restores flexibility to the old decals and makes them a pleasure to work with again. I've used this trick and it works great. I saved a number of 70 year old original Jensen decals using this stuff.
Micromark.com carries both products as will any really well stocked hobby shop. I think I bought the last at Hobby Lobby.
Steve |
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MooseMan
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Joined: 13 Aug 2006 Posts: 4142 Location: Cardiff
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Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 5:20 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Steve,
Thanks for the tip! Chris (Flywheel 61) actually suggests using decal fixing solution in his excellent instructions that came with the decal - I'll have to keep an eye out for some
Cheers,
Odilon _________________ Sight to the blind
Sensation to the numb
Courage to the cowardly
Conversation to the dumb |
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John Chapman
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Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 8:45 pm Post subject: |
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| MooseMan wrote: | Hi Steve,
Thanks for the tip! Chris (Flywheel 61) actually suggests using decal fixing solution in his excellent instructions that came with the decal - I'll have to keep an eye out for some
Cheers,
Odilon |
Hi Odilon
You could try Northern Finescale's UK agent for Microsol and Microset http://www.northernfinescale.ca/pages/parts.html
Northern Fine Scale (Peter Armstrong),
8 Greenways, Highcliffe, Christchurch, Dorset BH23 5AZ
Telephone: 01425 276587
E-mail: peter.armstrong@hemscott.net |
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flywheel61
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Joined: 12 Nov 2006 Posts: 2552 Location: australia
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Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 9:30 pm Post subject: |
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Mooseman wrote
| Quote: | | Thanks for the tip! Chris (Flywheel 61) actually suggests using decal fixing solution in his excellent instructions that came with the decal - I'll have to keep an eye out for some |
Decal setter should be available from most large chain toy stores that keep model kits, it's usually no more than GPB 3.00 and it certainly makes a difference. It actually sinks the decal into the paint work. Not sure how it will work after the engine's been fired though.
Cheers
Chris _________________
Mamod mania strikes again |
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