The Unofficial Mamod and Other Steam Forum

wiggyrs · Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 3:48 pm Post subject:

That's looking good

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Cheers
Martin

logoman · Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 7:36 pm Post subject:

Paul H · Posted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 4:11 am Post subject:

Lets do that, Greg! I will be there from 26-29 April. I am not driving, but the chap I am riding with is a boat guy as well. I am sure I could also arrange a visit to the hallowed grounds of our steamup venue, should the occasion arise.
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Paul
Tramffordd Mynydd Tir y Cwmwd
Hauling Granite in 7/8n18

RocDoc · Posted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 8:27 pm Post subject:

Phew ... in between lots of work and little play I've managed to squeeze in some time down at the shipyards. Slowly ... slowly the build is progressing.

This photo shows the main ribs that will support the lower deck in the hull. I used Gorilla glue to glue the ribs to the hull. Before gluing I had to shape the ribs a bit for a better fit into the hull. It was the first time I've ever used Gorilla glue ... pretty good, strong as super glue. It expands upon drying so fills any gaps that might be present.

This is the main deck that will eventually support the engine and boiler. Note the large squarish shaped part in the middle of the deck. In the original Krick plan, this section is fixed at a shallow angle (tilted towards the stern) so that the engine is tilted towards the stern, in line with the propeller shaft. As I'm using a TVR1a engine on a flat base, I glued this part horizontal flush with the deck.

At this stage in the build, the plans require a hole to be cut in the hull for the propeller shaft tube. It is a bit nerve racking having to cut a hole in an otherwise pristine boat hull. Has to be done ... so out came the Dremmel and some round files. Managed to get the hole more-or-less ok and in the right place. I can always fill any gaps with Milliput at a later date.

First step in adding the keel support to the hull. I glued the wood onto the hull using super glue and held in it all in place using masking tape.

We are getting there ... but I'm having to take a short break (again) as I'm off to India on another business trip ... again

angus · Posted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 8:31 pm Post subject:

Seems to be going very nicely

mogogear · Posted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 9:00 pm Post subject:

Great- you are through the harrowing part!!

That prope shaft hole and keel alignment is nerve racking stuff Pete..

Well done...That Gorilla Glue is great ..but I only use it in areas not usually seen- since it does expand so much it has grown into an eyesore a time or two for me. So behind and under scenes use is where I keep it employed...

Happy Spring Pete

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Lagniappe readily offered and accepted,

Mo (greg)

His Most Noble Lord Admiral Mo, the Apocalyptic of Old Tonbridge Wafers

http://gerddi.blogspot.com/

RocDoc · Posted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 9:04 pm Post subject:

Thanks Greg.

Yeah, that Gorilla glue does expand quite a bit. Great for filling gaps but like you say, best use it where it can't be seen.

Cheers

Pete

belugawhaleman · Posted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 11:08 pm Post subject:

I really want to build a boat!!
Thanks for posting.
BWM
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" If you take cranberries and stew them like applesauce they taste much more like prunes than rhubarb does". G. Marx

When your the joke of the neighborhood, Why should you care if you're. feeling good? Supertramp.

mogogear · Posted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 11:26 pm Post subject:

kno3 · Posted: Sat Apr 14, 2012 3:01 pm Post subject:

Regarding the steam leak on one cylinder: have you used the paper gaskets provided with the kit?
If not, your should. An alternative is liquid sealant (like Hylomar), but you have to be careful with it, so it doesn't get inside the engine.
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Say: Donaudampfschiffahrtsgesellschaftskapitän

RocDoc · Posted: Sat Apr 28, 2012 10:46 am Post subject:

Phew, been a very, very busy past few weeks ... mostly work related (hardly any play).

The good news is that the builders down at the shipyards have been busy. This time it's the turn of the plankers ... those dedicated ship builders whose job is to lay the planking on the decks (and hulls).

This stage in the build involves planking the engine base plate. The plans are not very clear. They seem to imply that the planking should be done after the base plate has been stuck into the hull. That would be very tricky to do so the easiest option was to plank the base plate before it is glued into the hull.

The first photo shows guidelines marked in pencil on the base plate to help position each plank.

Next, glueing the planks in place. I used Titebond wood glue to glue the planks down. I let the glue go slightly tacky (leaving it for about a minute) before sticking the planks in place. Excess glue was wiped off before the next plank was applied. Note that the planks extend a short way beyond the end of the base plate. It was much easier to cut off the excess then trying to make them fit exactly.

The last photo shows the finished deck. When the glue was dry, I sawed off the excess and sanded the planks to follow the shape of the base plate. I've followed the plans and had part 34 (hatch) removable at this stage in the build.

After it was all finished I found a few images of planking on the web that showed planks having a staggered pattern, with the end of one plank offset against the next one like the offset pattern of bricks in a wall (one brick overlapping half of the next brick etc). Mine are just long continuous strips of planking. It's slightly annoying ... ah well ... never mind. I suppose if I want that effect I can always scribe the pattern into the planks afterwards and highlight it with a darker stain or something.

RocDoc · Posted: Sat Apr 28, 2012 10:48 am Post subject:

Les · Posted: Sat Apr 28, 2012 5:45 pm Post subject:

RocDoc · Posted: Mon May 07, 2012 9:56 am Post subject:

Another week ... another milestone achieved in the Alexandra build. The boat now has a rudder that works!!

Wasn't plain sailing (excuse the pun) as the first problem was to understand the Krick instructions. The parts for the rudder assembly are shown in the photo below. Reading the instructions left me a bit confused for a while (doesn't take much I do agree). The instructions describe part 184 as an M4 brass nut which goes on top of the brass rudder shaft. So one would think that part 184 would look like a nut and the shaft would have a corresponding M4 thread. Wrong on both accounts!! Then there was the bearing pin which is shown on the master plan, but not mentioned in the instructions (apart from the number) ... where does that go, how does that fit?

After examining the parts several times and reading the instructions again (several times) I finally figured it all out.

The four parts of plywood that make up the rudder were glued together and a small hole was hand-drilled at the correct place to accommodate the bearing pin. The bearing pin goes through a tiny hole in the rudder shaft ... and into the hole in the rudder itself.

Part 184 is not an M4 nut, but a brass collar with a grub screw. This collar has a black attachment for the servo control (to the right of the photo).

The next step was to mark out the position of the 5mm hole for the brass rudder trunk on the hull. The key point was that the rudder shaft must be vertical and be at 90 degrees to the keel (and also in line with the keel). Looks pretty much vertical to me.

The rudder shaft had to be glued in the hull. Parts are provided (46-49) but these are quite small, triangular shaped bits of 3mm plywood. Glueing these in place whilst keeping the brass trunk in it's correct position would be very difficult. I opted for a more robust approach. I cut a piece of 6mm thick ply into a square and drilled a 4.5mm hole through the wood. I enlarged the hole slightly so that the 5mm trunk would fit through ... it's a tight fit but that is what I wanted. I then shaped the lower edge of the wooden block to fit the shape of the hole. Then I glued the block in place using Gorilla glue with the trunk and shaft in place. I should be able to trim off the excess glue once it has gone off.

The final photo shows the rudder dry-fitted to the shaft. You can just see a bit of the bearing pin sticking out of the shaft. I'll probably add a small brass washer below the rudder to make it all nice and neat.

Les · Posted: Tue May 08, 2012 7:29 am Post subject:

Well done Pete, if it wasn't for the instructions the build on these boats would be a lot simpler and quicker.

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Les - Don't panic - it's your round next.

http://www.bucketofsteam.co.uk/

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