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Building the Krick Alexandra Steam Launch
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logoman


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PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2012 8:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

the rudder is a milestone, keep up the great work.
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mogogear


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PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2012 4:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ahhh Drilling the rudder shaft hole and the prop shaft holes are times for holding ones breath for sure..

good progress Pete
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RocDoc


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PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2012 6:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Greg & Miles.  Yes, I did hold my breath and I did the old "measure three times - drill once" approach.  Luckily it worked first time.

Been a bit busy, this time with the cabin floor (part 53).  In the photo below, the cabin floor fits on the ribs ... but can anyone spot what is wrong in this photo (please excuse the poor quality of the photo).




Here is a clue ... I'll add the brass tube which is the propeller shaft tube (which fits snugly into the pre-cut recesses in the ribs).



Yep, add the brass tubing adds a bit of height and the cabin floor doesn't fit on the ribs any more!!!!  It is 'out' by at least 3mm.  I've double-triple checked everything ... it doesn't fit.  

Rather than cutting the recesses deeper in the ribs (and possibly loosing the alignment with the keel) I cut out a small, elongate hole in the cabin floor, as shown in the photo below.  My plan is to have the engine coupled to the prop shaft as close to the cabin as possible so the tube won't extend out this far anyway.




The moral of this build is ... dry fit everything first ... as the build is certainly full of 'interesting challenges'.

Pete
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logoman


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PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2012 7:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very interesting to see the actual issues of following the instructions pete.
If I ever build a boat kit it wil be a Saito, just because I have a fondness for their quirky boats.
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Les


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PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2012 8:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am glad to see you are taking all these problems in your stride now.  
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mogogear


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PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2012 8:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete

Careful about just cutting the "prop shaft" / "stuffing box" They have a bearing( just a small telescoping size piece of tube) in each end that keeps the smaller diameter shaft contact on just the two ends sections.

If that all makes sense

Good flexibility on your deck solutions
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RocDoc


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PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2012 9:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mogogear wrote:
Pete

Careful about just cutting the "prop shaft" / "stuffing box" They have a bearing( just a small telescoping size piece of tube) in each end that keeps the smaller diameter shaft contact on just the two ends sections.

If that all makes sense

Good flexibility on your deck solutions


Makes perfect sense Greg.  

My plan was not to cut the end off ... but rather remove a section of tube from the middle and then join the two remaining bits back together to make a shorter length tube.  I would solder a length of slightly larger diameter tubing over the join for extra strength.

That's the plan ... but we all know what happens with Master Plans  

Pete
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mogogear


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PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2012 3:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Or just cut one end and then get a small 1 cm section of tube that can telescope inside the outer and fits the shaft o.d.

That might be easier than trying to re-solder a perfectly straight length back together.

Just wanted to make sure you knew the "bearing" method of stuff shaft construction.




This may be what you already know...Good ship building Pete!!
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RocDoc


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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2012 9:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm beginning to wonder if I should call this thread ... "Trials and Tribulations" ... because the build certainly isn't straight forward.

Saying this, no one said that it would be easy ... which is why it is so much fun!!!!!!!!

Below are a couple of photos that reveal yet another 'issue' with the build. I thought it would be a good idea to start thinking about the R/C gear that I would be using in the boat.  So ... I dug out some trusty servos (Futaba S3003) and tried to fit one in to the recess designated for the rudder.  

Surprise, surprise ... it didn't fit onto the servo supports.  The servo supports are small pieces of wood (parts number 11) that are glued at 90 degrees onto the bulkhead (part 10).  The instructions don't mention anything about the size of the servo and hence how far apart the supports should be.  Mine were not far enough apart for the S3003 servo.  The gap needs to be at least 40mm.  I ended up having to enlarge the gap using a file, holding the file vertically and filing the edges of the supports from above.





The second issue is much more problematic.   In the photo below, you can see the round servo horn ... and what looks like a lump of wood hanging below the deck.  This is the rear bulkhead, part 14.  

You don't need a tape measure to see that the bulkhead extends below the level of the servo horn!!  There is no clear line of sight between the servo horn and the rudder shaft ... the bulkhead is in the way.  

I think what I'm going to do here is to drill a series of small holes into the bulkhead (to form a slit) at the level of the servo horn so that I can pass the linkage through the bulkhead to connect the servo to the rudder shaft.  

It's a good job I was thinking about the R/C gear before I embarked on all the planking ... phew.

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mogogear


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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2012 2:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A good head on your shoulders Pete.

What about chopping off a small bit of  height from the servo support blocks to accomplish the same thing?

or will that take your servo horn down below the corresponding horn at the rudder post?
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RocDoc


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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2012 4:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mogogear wrote:
A good head on your shoulders Pete.

What about chopping off a small bit of  height from the servo support blocks to accomplish the same thing?

or will that take your servo horn down below the corresponding horn at the rudder post?


Great suggestion Greg, but I don't think that would be possible to do as the servo supports rest on small upright triangular shaped 'wedges' that are glued into the bulkhead with the supports glued on top (that is, they act as right-angle braces for the horizontal supports).  Would be really tricky to remove all the bits through the very small opening in the deck.

Cheers

Pete
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mogogear


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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2012 6:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ahhh well...you will figure it out and be sussed with the solution....
Boats and their puzzles
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angus


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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very interesting to see this project evolve  
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46u


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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2012 12:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is going to be so SWEET!  Thumbs up!
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RocDoc


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 8:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry I've been off for a while ... so many things to do and so little time to do everything.  Ah well ...

Made some progress with the build.  I've added the planking to the rear deck and are in the process of dry-fitting the main cabin into the hull.

The photo below shows the sides and front-back of the cabin dry-fitted in the hull.  The cabin didn't fit first time ... needed a bit of sanding here and there but nothing too major.  

What is obvious in the photo is the rather large gap between the straight edge of the cabin sides and the curved edge of the main deck.  




If I gently pull the sides outwards, I can close the gap but I'm not sure if this is the correct thing to do as it puts the whole cabin assembly under quite a bit of strain.  Also, there is no mention in the instructions of 'pulling' the cabin sides outwards.  

If I do pull the cabin sides outwards a bit, the pre-shaped bench will fit the curved shape of the cabin sides much better (see second photo).

I'm thinking about soaking the cabin walls a bit then trying to shape them when wet.  That should be less stressful on the wood and hopefully prevent any splitting.

It's all fun and games with this build.

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