The Unofficial Mamod and Other Steam Forum

[RocDoc]

It's here ... the Bowman M101 that I won recently on ebay.

As you can see, the overall condition is pretty good.  The piston turns freely ... bit of grim here and there etc.  Needs a good clean and polish of course.  The base will need repainting as the paint work is badly cracked all over the place.  The logo is just about visible but also cracked.



This shot is looking towards the back of the engine and flywheel.  Looks like it could be a simple soldering job to secure the steam pipe back in place.  Would you recommend silver soldering for this join?  Would also need to make an exhaust tube ... and a chimney.



View from the rear ...



The boiler needs the most work.  The central stay bolt is missing resulting in two holes in each end cap.  I will need to pick some ones brains about how to fix this.  The screw 'saftey value' is easily replaced with a proper valve.  The small bit just above the hole ... is that the remains of the filler plug? (do 101s have filler plugs).



The firebox is in one piece, albeit a bit rusty.  Bit of rust inhibitor and some new paint will make the firebox look like new again.



Finally, the burner.  Got a small dent at the top (no hole) and the burner tube and screw top is missing.  Should be a fairly straight forward restoration job (he says).  Some questions for fellow 101 owners ...

a) how long is the burner tube?
b) how long is the split in the tube (for the wick)?
c) what is the distance between the burner body and the split?



There you go .. not bad for £48.

Hope to start the restoration soon.

Watch this space

Pete

[Dampfzauberer]

Hi,
If i may add something:
Before you go on and repaint the whole base, try to save the paint!
Spill some oil on the whole paint and rub it in.
Let it cure for one hour or so and then whipe off.

I always do that on old german engine.
The effect is the paint gets a bit more "shiney" and you get all the grime off.

Please, try this before you repaint it.
From here, the paint Looks cracked but still okay (as long as it is not flaking off)

Just a thought of me  
_________________
....."Remember:  It's  Bi-Mon-Sci-Fi-Con".....

[Les]

That doesn't look too bad at all, I would replace the chimney and the exhaust pipe but I would only do soft soldering on the engine, it doesn't need silver soldering at all.

Here is the chimney size for you.

101 chimney, 8 1/2" long, exhaust pipe hole 2 5/8" from bottom.
101 chimney slots 3 1/4" from bottom, 3/4" long.

As for the boiler you can use a piece of tubing and push it all the way though to replace the original threaded rod, then just solder some brass thread and nut in the ends of the tubing.
_________________
Les - Nolo Servile Capistrum

www.freewebs.com/lesmarsh

[Burnmafingers]

I can't help you with your questions but it looks a nice engine to get to grips with!

[Les]

You remove the safety valve to fill it, what you can see on the end is the remains of the water level plug.
_________________
Les - Nolo Servile Capistrum

www.freewebs.com/lesmarsh

[Roly Williams]

You got yourself a bargain there.

Some answers to your queries:

[Les]

You remove the safety valve to fill it, what you can see on the end is the remains of the water level plug.
_________________
Les - Nolo Servile Capistrum

www.freewebs.com/lesmarsh

[MooseMan]

Cracker Pete!!!

The stay rod's easy peasy - you need some 5/32 brass rod, preferably m4 threaded. Secure intoplace with a couple of nuts and solder up. Or you can fake it with a 5/32 brass tube, with a decapitated m4 machine screw in one end to make the threaded chimney stay (that's what I did).

The tube on my burner is 110mm long and 8mm od. The slot is 4mm wide. It is 80mm long and starts 12mm from the burner body.

No need to silver solder the steam tube, in fact you won't be able to as it has previously been soft soldered. The only thing you may want to silver solder is the end of the burner tube.

The only problem you'll have is getting the small gear....but I think that with determination and some sharp files you could cut one from bar stock - you'll just have to find a friendly party to borrow an original from
_________________
Nid wy’n gofyn bywyd moethus,
Aur y byd na’i berlau mân:
Gofyn wyf am galon hapus,
Calon onest, calon lân.

[Les]

[RocDoc]

Wow ... brillant suggestions ... thanks.

Dampfzauberer: Yes I will try that.  The paint isn't peeling .. just cracked.  I'd prefer not to paint if I can help it.  What sort of oil would you recommend?

Les, Roly and Mooseman ... thanks very for the measurements.  I'm just thinking ... could any one post a photo of the end of the boiler showing the water level plug and the end of the stay rod ... just so that I know what it should look like.  I have some 5/32" rod somewhere ... I'll need a 'die' to make the M4 thread.

Just thinking more (always dangerous) ... if I do a brass rod through the boiler (as a new stay rod) and solder in place, will there be any problems when the boiler expands during heating?  

Sorry ... when I said filler plug I meant the overflow plug.  I had a Homer moment ... do-oh.

Pete

[Dampfzauberer]

Oh I think sewing machine oil wil be okay.
Or steam oil, if not too thick.
Or WD40 if you have  
Something light, as it has to go "into the paint"

For me, it is very common to see cracked paint.
The paint on old german engine is mostly very fine cracked.

This BTW is a very sought after effect, if your engine does not have original paint anymore!
Engines on ebay with old, cracked paint on the bases etc. will mostly sell higher than repainted engines. Think of that  
_________________
....."Remember:  It's  Bi-Mon-Sci-Fi-Con".....

[RocDoc]

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