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New steam plant for Graham Industries VR1A
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HenryArtist


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2017 12:08 am    Post subject: New steam plant for Graham Industries VR1A Reply with quote

Some time ago I wrote about building the Graham Industries VR1A vertical steam engine.
A simple steam plant was constructed for it and it worked well.
You can read about it here - http://modelsteam.myfreeforum.org/ftopic80993-0-asc-0.php

Since I did that project workshop facilities at Henry Towers have improved somewhat so I now have the means to make a better steam plant.  

Last year I acquired a Brue boiler made by Helen Verrall-Stait for a very reasonable sum while I was at the Blackpool Model Boat Show. The boiler came with a chimney and wood cladding but no fittings. Most importantly, it did come with a test certificate and paperwork.

A quick rummage in the bits box produced some fittings and the chimney was replaced with the one from the Ugly Boiler.



I wanted the burner to enter from the rear of the boiler and of course some method must be found to secure the boiler to a base. (Otherwise it may wander off when I'm not looking...)

So this is what is needed -
A firebox for the boiler which should be raised 12mm to allow a Bix 009 burner to function efficiently and have sufficient ventilation.
A means to affix the firebox to a base.
It should have a door on the front so the burner can be lit (and to allow for observation of the burner flame).
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HenryArtist


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2017 1:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Parts marked out ready for drilling.



The firebox will be made from 0.5mm brass sheet.
Mounting brackets from brass angle.
Boiler supports from brass flat section.

For those who like to know measurements of things the parts are photographed on a 10mm grid.
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Jim


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2017 2:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Henry these type of threads are awesome!

Tuned in mate and keep the photos coming
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HenryArtist


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2017 2:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll do my best Jim, though the wheels of PhotoBucket grindeth exceedingly slow...  
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2017 3:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

HenryArtist wrote:
I'll do my best Jim, though the wheels of PhotoBucket grindeth exceedingly slow...  


Henry I dumped PB a decade ago! Flickr is an incomparable photo host compared to the dog that PB became.

I had a Pro Flickr account for ages, but let it lapse 2 years ago. The free one too me has been identical in every regard.
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andycrazy


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2017 6:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will be following your progress with interest.

I post all my pics direct to the site, its easier for me as I dont have any photo host accounts and I dont really want to if I can avoid it.
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HenryArtist


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2017 9:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Drilling holes in sheet brass.



I like to tape the brass to a board with masking tape.
When using the milling machine to drill holes like this the compound table is positioned so the drill is over a T-slot. In the unlikely event that I accidentally drill all the way through the board having the drill ding the bottom of a T-slot is nowhere near as bad as marring the top surface of the compund table.

The board can slide on one axis only. Movement on the other axis is done by moving the compound table. This means the workpiece can't "jump" and holes can be safely and accurately drilled.



Bigger holes are drilled by starting with a small drill bit and working up through several bits to the desired size. As only a relatively small amount of metal is removed each time there is less chance of the drill grabbing and distorting the brass sheet.


Drilling of the brass sheet completed.
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Les


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2017 9:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A very interesting thread.

Would a step drill give you the same results as changing the drill bit each time?
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HenryArtist


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2017 10:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Les wrote:
...Would a step drill give you the same results as changing the drill bit each time?


A step drill would go too deep!  

You are, of course, welcome to try that on your own milling machine. Do let me know how you get on.
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Les


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2017 10:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would if I had one but then I would use a thicker block beneath the work.
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HenryArtist


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2017 10:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The angle and flat section were held in a vice for drilling. Then the individual brackets and boiler supports were sawn off.



A model maker's mitre box and a razor saw give accurate cuts.
The smaller hole is 1mm diameter and the larger one is 2.2mm diameter.

Two of the mounting brackets will have adjustment slots.



2mm TC3 cutter is used to machine the slots.

A toolmaker's clamp makes it easy to hold the brackets so the corners can be filed.



The mounting brackets are 6mm wide.
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Les


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2017 10:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What fixing is going to be used in the 1mm hole?
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HenryArtist


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2017 10:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Les wrote:
What fixing is going to be used in the 1mm hole?


Ah, you'll have to wait for the next episode Les.  
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HenryArtist


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 25, 2017 1:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Firebox guillotined to size and opening for the burner cut with a fretsaw. Horizontal cuts made for the firehole. Easier to do that while the metal is flat. Rest of the material left in place for now to provide structural integrity during rolling and silver soldering processes.





1/32" rivets will be used as pins to locate the mounting brackets and boiler supports during silver soldering.

I was struggling to come up with a suitable design for a latch for the firehole door which is 20mm wide. Then I realised that if I angle the front of it gravity will hold it shut.  
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Jim


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 25, 2017 1:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

How handy are those engineers clamps!
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